Thanks for the comments. Yes I'm providing meter readings. There was a bit of confusion earlier as they used to bill from the 2nd of each month to the 1st of the next, so ideal meter reading was on the first. They then changed to billing from 1st of the month, so ideal readings need to be from the last day. However the meter reading doesn't affect the estimate for the following month. They're billing in advance so the amount billed is always an estimate. So my current situation is that after several months of complaining about excessive estimates I mutinied, cancelled the DD and said I would only pay either a bill based on a realistic estimate in advance, or a fixed monthly amount of a sensible amount, or in arrears based on actual consumption once the meter reading is submitted. Since then we've exchanged a million emails in which they've tried to persuade me that (a) their estimates are realistic based on some mythical "national database" and (b) that I shouldn't worry because any overcharge is reconciled in the following month. And (c) repeating their suggestion that I agree a fixed DD at a figure higher than any of their previous variable bills. That's where have been for a while. The complaint is with the Ombudsman Service, awaiting their response. However later on yesterday I had a call from them which I didn't record (sorry), however they have confirmed by email. What they're now saying is that I should hold off paying the May and June bills and review the situation once they have the end of June meter reading and have generated the July bill. I'm OK with that if the July estimate is sensible, but I did point out to the guy that if July's estimate is another stupid one we will be no further forward. That point is also vaguely confirmed in their email. So it still hinges on their willingness to base their advanced billing on a sensible estimate.

Hi, I'm surprised there isn't already a thread on this outfit. The way they work is that they bill for electricity in advance, using their "estimate" for that month's use. If you provide a meter reading at the end of the month, then the next bill contains a correction for any over or under charge. So for example the May bill includes charges for 31 days standing charge, and for an "estimated" number of units for May, but also includes a calulation for the previous month comparing estimated and actual use, and applying a credit or presumably a debit as appropriate. The bills are not easy to read, but essentially you end up paying for what you use. Our problems started in January when they suddenly started to work off really high estimates meaning you're paying in advance for electricity that you won't actually use, and although the over charge is credited next month it's coupled with another stupid estimate for the following month. To put that in context their estimate for December turned out to be only 6% higher than our actual use. Their estimate for January was 52% high than their estimate for December, and 88% higher than our actual use. I've gone through a series of months in which I've challenged their estimates, each time the meter readings have shown that I was right and they were wrong. in April I dug my heels in and raised a formal complaint, stated that I would not pay any bill based on a stupid estimate and suggested either a fixed monthly sum (I named a figure), or to pay in arrears each month based on actual use. Their initial response was to ask for a fixed monthly payment, naming a figure higher than any of their previous variable bills. I was wondering if anyone else has been going through anything like this process, and if so then have they managed to reach any sort of resolution? Thanks, Tony S

Just to make up for maybe treading on CAG's toes with my initial post, if anyone signs up for Smarty using the link below then both they and I will get a free month (the new member pays for a month and gets the second free). I'll donate any saving that I get to CAG Mods - if this is out of line then please feel free to delete my post.

Smarty is similar, month by month plans with no tie-in. No credit check either. Smarty runs over 3, Giff Gaff uses O2 so the choice may come down to coverage in your area. We've been using Smarty in a Mikrotik router as our main home Internet connection for nine months now, it costs less than our ADSL broadband and gives 20meg download instead of 3.5.

If your record with Halifax is good it might still be worth asking if you could take "additional borrowing" (that's what Lloyds called it when we extended our mortgage). That's assuming there's enough equity in the house, and also that your income meets their affordability criteria. When we took additional borrowing we were also allowed to take it on a longer term than the existing mortgage.

To be honest I don't think it will help with insurance. Although it seems unfair for something that was outside his control I think that even if the accident was due to a proven fault with the car they will still see him as at fault. Regarding repair, write off etc, the car will only be classed as write off of any category if the insurer chooses not to repair but to pay out the value instead. It won't apply if he repairs the car himself dealing with the repairer directly. If the excess is that much it might be a better way.

Some ABS systems work by sensing deceleration of the wheel, meaning they would still work if all four wheels tried to lock up simultaneously. Our car works like that, on slippy wet ice you may have no braking effect at all but the wheels do not lock up. To be honest I thought they all worked like that, but if some work only be comparing speeds then yes they will be fooled by all sorts of conditions.

Just thinking about this from another angle, if I understand this correctly this loan is the only one you have secured on the house. If that's correct then £35K is quite small by mortgage standards. Could you take out a more conventional mortgage at a sensible interest rate, and pay this loan off? Or are you tied in for the term? Even if there were early repayment penalties it might still be worthwhile given the high interest rate mentioned earlier.

I think it's worth double checking the addresses on the car's registration document, and on driving licence. Just in case there's some reason which mail might not have reached you. Have you been sent any copies of prior correspondence, and if so was the name and address all in order?

Just another point of view here, especially as your friend doesn't seem to be prepared to do a lot for himself. If the bank repossesses and sell, your friend is going to end up with something like 3/4 million in cash, in addition to all his other properties. That's quite a lot of wealth by many peoples' standards, although I understand that your friend may have higher expectations.

Are you assuming there is photographic evidence, or has it been mentioned somewhere? I ask because it would be perfectly possible to be charged and in fact convicted without any sort of photograph or video, for example if the allegation was backed up by witness statements.

Are you the registered keeper, shown on the registration document (V5C)? If so then you're required to keep the car taxed and insured unless it's both declared SORN and kept off the public road. If the finance house is the registered keeper, it's their problem.

Surely that's not correct, tax (VED) is due whether the car is on the road or not, unless declared SORN. That's been the case for quite a few years well before continuous insurance requirements came into force.

I guess if you included Statute Barred in your defence, and gave some plausible reason why that might be the case, it would be up to the pursuer to show otherwise.

Do you know when you last made payment? Reading the thread I think you said it was at least 8 years ago, then elsewhere maybe you're saying 2009 (which comes to the same thing). Do you now think that you made payments more recently?

Have you got a copy of the court order yet? You probably think I'm banging on about nothing, but IF they have a Suspended Possession Order you need to make sure you are very clear on the conditions because if you don't adhere to them then they can reapply for possession with very little formality. Anyone here know the process to get an SPO eventually lifted, or does it hand over you for the remainder of the mortgage term?

Maybe stating the obvious, but remember it's Statute Barred in 5 years rather than 6.

You should have, or get, something in writing from the Court.

Are you sure they weren't granted a Suspended Possession Order?

Hi, Do file attachments get removed from older threads? I have been unable to view attachments from a couple of threads that I've been reading, not sure if that's to be expected or whether it's a problem with my account. Typically what happens if I'm not logged in is that I'm directed to a login page. That's to be expected. However if I then login then sometimes there is now no link available (i.e. the link was there before I logged in, but gone afterwards). Sometimes the link appears to be there but actually loads a blank page. Thanks, Tony S

Check the exact date when the amount of interest charged was changed (or will change). If there's a delay before changing your DD then you've made a small overpayment off the balance. You should be able to confirm this from their statement.

If they provide a statement you should be able to verify that the amount of interest is correct, and that the additional amount that you're paying over and above that interest is being deducted from the balance.

Mine changed almost straightaway. Cheltenham and Gloucester pre-credit crunch tracker.