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    • I understand confusion with this thread.  I tried to keep threads separate because there have been so many angles.    But a team member merged them all.  This is why it's hard to keep track. This forum exists to help little people fight injustice - however big or small.  Im here to try get a decent resolution. Not to give in to the ' big boys'. My "matter' became complicated 'matters' simply because a lender refused to sell a property. What can I say?  I'll try in a nutshell to give an overview: There's a long lease property. I originally bought it short lease with a s.146 on it from original freeholder.  I had no concerns. So lender should have been able to sell a well-maintained lovely long lease property.  The property was great. The issue is not the property.  Economy, sdlt increases, elections, brexit, covid, interest hikes etc didn't help.  The issue is simple - the lender wanted to keep it.    Before repo I offered to clear my loan.  I was a bit short and lender refused.  They said (recorded) they thought the property was worth much more and they were happy to keep accruing interest (in their benefit) until it reached a point where they felt they could repo and still easily quickly sell to get their £s back.  This was a mistake.  The market was (and is) tough.   2y later the lender ceo bid the same sum to buy the property for himself. He'd rejected higher offers in the intervening period whilst accruing interest. I had the property under offer to a fantastic niche buyer but lender rushed to repo and buyer got spooked and walked.  It had taken a long time to find such a lucrative buyer.  A sale which would have resulted in £s and another asset for me. Post repo lender had 1 offer immediately.  But dragged out the process for >1y - allegedly trying to get other offers. But disclosure shows there was only one valid buyer. Lender appointed receiver (after 4 months) - simply to try acquire the freehold.  He used his powers as receiver to use me, as leaseholder, to serve notice on freeholders.  Legally that failed. Meanwhile lender failed to secure property - and squatters got in (3 times).  And they failed to maintain it.  So freeholders served a dilapidations notice (external) - on me as leaseholder (cc-ed to lender).   (That's how it works legally) I don't own the freehold.  But I am a trustee and have to do right by the freeholders.  This is where matters got/ get complicated.  And probably lose most caggers.   Lawyers got involved for the freeholders to firstly void the receiver enfranchisement notice. Secondly, to serve the dilapidations notice.  The lack of maintenance was in breach of lease and had to be served to protect fh asset. The lender did no repairs. They said a buyer would undertake them. Which was probably correct. If they had sold. After 1y lender finally agreed to sell to the 1st offeror and contracts went with lawyers.  Within 1 month lender reneged.  Lender tried to suggest buyer walked. Evidence shows he/ his lawyers continued trying to exchange (cash) for 4 months.  Evidence shows lender and receiver strategy had been to renege and for ceo to take control.   I still think that's their plan. Lender then stupidly chose to pretty much bulldoze the property.  Other stuff was going on in the background. After repo I was in touch by phone and email and lender knew post got to me.   Despite this, after about 10 months (before and then during covid), they deliberately sent SDs and eventually a B petition to an incorrect address and an obscure small court.  They never served me properly.  (In hindsight I understand they hoped to get a backdoor B - so they could keep the property that way.)  Eventually the random court told them to email me by way of service.  At this point their ruse to make me B failed.  I got a lawyer (friend paid). The B petition was struck out. They’d failed to include the property as an asset. They were in breach of insolvency rules. Simultaneously the receiver again appointed lawyers to act on my behalf as leaseholder. This time to serve notice on the freeholders for a lease extension.  He had hoped to try and vary the strict lease. Evidence shows the already long length of lease wasn't an issue.  The lender obviously hoped to get round their lack of permission to do works (which they were already doing) by hoping to remove the strict clauses that prevent leaseholder doing alterations.   The extension created a new legal angle for me to deal with.  I had to act as trustee for freeholders against me as leaseholder/ the receiver.  Inconsistencies and incompetence by receiver lawyers dragged this out 3y.  It still isn't properly resolved.  Meanwhile - going back to the the works the lender undertook. The works were consciously in breach of lease.  The lender hadn't remedied the breaches listed in the dilapidations notice.  They destroyed the property.  The trustees compiled all evidence.  The freeholders lawyers then served a forfeiture notice. This notice started a different legal battle. I was acting for the freeholders against what the lender had done on my behalf as leaseholder.  This legal battle took 3y to resolve. The simple exit would have been for lender to sell. A simple agreement to remedy the breaches and recompense the freeholders in compensation - and there's have been clean title to sell.  That option was proposed to them.   This happened by way of mediation for all parties 2y ago.  A resolution option was put forward and in principle agreed.  But immediately after the lender lawyers failed to engage.  A hard lesson to learn - mediation cannot be referred to in court. It's considered w/o prejudice. The steps they took have made no difference to their ability to sell the property.  Almost 3y since they finished works they still haven't sold. ** ** I followed up some leads myself.  A qualified cash buyer offered me a substantial sum.  The lender and receiver both refused it.   I found another offer in disclosure.  6 months later someone had apparently offered a substantial sum via an agent.  The receiver again rejected it.  The problem of course was that the agent had inflated the market price to get the business. But no-one was or is ever going to offer their list price.  Yet the receiver wanted/wants to hold out for the list price.  Which means 1y later not only has it not sold - disclosure shows few viewings and zero interest.  It's transparently over-priced.  And tarnished. For those asking why I don't give up - I couldn't/ can't.  Firstly I have fiduciary duties as a trustee. Secondly, legal advice indicates I (as leaseholder) could succeed with a large compensation claim v the lender.  Also - I started a claim v my old lawyer and the firm immediately reimbursed some £s. That was encouraging.  And a sign to continue.  So I'm going for compensation.  I had finance in place (via friend) to do a deal and take the property back off the lender - and that lawyer messed up bad.   He should have done a deal.  Instead further years have been wasted.   Maybe I only get back my lost savings - but that will be a result.   If I can add some kind of complaint/ claim v the receiver's conscious impropriety I will do so.   I have been left with nothing - so fighting for something is worth it. The lender wants to talk re a form of settlement.  Similar to my proposal 2y ago.  I have a pretty clear idea of what that means to me.  This is exactly why I do not give up.  And why I continue to ask for snippets of advice/ pointers on cag.  
    • It was all my own work based on my previous emails to P2G which Bank has seen.
    • I was referring to #415 where you wrote "I was forced to try to sell - and couldn't." . And nearer the start in #79 .. "I couldn't sell.  I had an incredibly valuable asset. Huge equity.  But the interest accrued / the property market suffered and I couldn't find a buyer even at a level just to clear the debt." In #194 you said you'd tried to sell for four years.  The reason for these points is that a lot of the claims against for example your surveyor, solicitor, broker, the lender and now the receiver are mainly founded in a belief that they should have been able to do something but did not. Things that might seem self evident to you but not necessarily to others. Pressing these claims may well need a bit more hard evidence, rather than an appeal to common sense. Can you show evidence of similar properties, with similar freehold issues, selling readily? And solid reasons why the lender should have been able to sell when you couldn't.
    • You can use a family's address.   The only caveat is for the final hearing you'd need to be there in person   HOWEVER i'd expect them to pay if its only £200 because costs of attending will be higher than that
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      The judge's reasoning is very useful and will certainly be helpful in any other cases relating to third-party rights where the customer has contracted with the courier company by using a broker.
      This is generally speaking the problem with using PackLink who are domiciled in Spain and very conveniently out of reach of the British justice system.

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New mains adaptor


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My old adaptor for my lappy was falling apart. Got a new universal one from Asda this morning.

 

It's been fine all afternoon, but I've just noticed it's plugged in and battery is showing as balanced at 21%, but it's not charging.

 

Any ideas what the problem might be and if I can do anything to sort it (short of returning it).

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What is the voltage output and amperage of the new one (or can you link to the product on the Asda site)?

 

What does it say for the voltage and amperage on the old one?

 

Also - take a look at the battery - and copy any spec from it too please (or can you link to a spec for the laptop, or say the model number)?

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Output on the old one is 20v 3.25A. Bit confused by the new one as it seems to vary, I guess depending on the type of lappy it's use with. It's this one. http://trust.com/products/product.aspx?artnr=17259

 

I tried it in the shop and it seemed to work, but now I look at that link, my lappy isn't listed. It's an Advent 5301.

 

I guess I might have answered my own question.:-(

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Also clean the terminals on the battery and the laptop. I did that once to a laptop that I thought the battery was duff on. It turned out that the terminals were dirty

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Everything I say is opinion only. If you are unsure on any comment made, you should see a qualified solicitor

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  • Compact 70 Watt universal notebook power adapter to use as replacement or secondary power adapter at home/office
  • Equipped with 8 different notebook tips and 6 step selectable power output to assure compatibility with major notebook brands
  • Switchable 12/15/16/18/19/20 Volt DC notebook power output
     
    70W at 20v is 3,5A so should be fine based on your old one being 3,25A
     
    So the spec seems fine - Is it set to 20V?
     
    Why did you replace the old one, was it by any chance doing the same as the new one?

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The old one worked but it was falling apart. Then I noticed that some of the wires were exposed and fraying so thought it best to scrap it.

 

Will try cleaning the terminals silverfox. Just a soft brush or something?

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Sorry. The battery ran down completely, so every time I take out the lead my lappy closes down.

 

The now one said it was plugged in and charging but nothing happened. Put in the old one and it's now gone up to 3% so that's working.

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Probably not - as I have no idea what a multimeter is. :lol:

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In case you hadn't noticed - I'm not very techy!! :madgrin:

 

Thanks for your help Bang! I'll take it back tomorrow.

 

Nicely charging now with dodgy old lead. :roll:

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Caro, there are many factors that can affect this sort of issue with a laptop's adapter.

Have you definitely set the Voltage on the new adapter to 20V? If so, then try setting it to 19V and try again. What about the tip, are you sure you're using the correct tip size for your laptop's power socket? Is the old adapter the original laptop one or an old replacement? Is your laptop's power socket 'loose' in any way when you connect the adapter's tip into it - the old or new one?

Does the light on the new adapter come on when plugged into the mains? You state that the adapter worked in the store, but how did you test this? Was there an exact same model open in the store or just another adapter?

Sorry for all the questions, but I used to run my own IT business and know a little about diagnosing this classic problem with laptops!

Rgds.

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Caro, there are many factors that can affect this sort of issue with a laptop's adapter.

Have you definitely set the Voltage on the new adapter to 20V? All I did was plug it in.

 

If so, then try setting it to 19V and try again. How do I set it?

 

What about the tip, are you sure you're using the correct tip size for your laptop's power socket? It fits very well so I thought it was ok.

Is the old adapter the original laptop one or an old replacement? An old replacement.

 

Is your laptop's power socket 'loose' in any way when you connect the adapter's tip into it - the old or new one? The new one seems better than the old one which had a tendency to fall out quite easily. The new one seems more secure.

Does the light on the new adapter come on when plugged into the mains? Yes

 

You state that the adapter worked in the store, but how did you test this? Was there an exact same model open in the store or just another adapter? The sales assistant asked if I'd definitely buy it if it worked and when I said yes he plugged it into my lappy. The power light flashed amber as it usually does when charging so I thought it was ok.

Sorry for all the questions, but I used to run my own IT business and know a little about diagnosing this classic problem with laptops!

Rgds.

 

No problem with the questions. Thanks for taking the time. :-)

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If you know someone who is technically minded - its very simple (if the charger is not glued together) to open it up and replace the lead.

 

The lead plugs into the adapter and I've tried using the old one in the new adapter. Doesn't work.

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Will try cleaning the terminals silverfox. Just a soft brush or something?

Depends if you can get to the terminals but I used wet and dry paper (dry obviously) but after what has been posted since then, I don't think it could be the terminals

If you are asked to deal with any matter via private message, PLEASE report it.

Everything I say is opinion only. If you are unsure on any comment made, you should see a qualified solicitor

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Caro, there are many factors that can affect this sort of issue with a laptop's adapter.

Have you definitely set the Voltage on the new adapter to 20V? All I did was plug it in.

 

So, did you see if the sales assistant set the device to the correct Voltage? Did he/she even mention anything about this to you?!

 

If so, then try setting it to 19V and try again. How do I set it?

 

Load the product link you posted in #3 and click on 'Download Manuals' on the left of the product information page. Download the 'Quick install manual' at the top of the table shown, which will open a PDF file. There is a round part to the device, which has a dial for setting the correct Voltage, as shown in Diagram 1 - Find your laptop's Voltage.

 

What about the tip, are you sure you're using the correct tip size for your laptop's power socket? It fits very well so I thought it was ok.

 

Is the old adapter the original laptop one or an old replacement? An old replacement.

 

Is your laptop's power socket 'loose' in any way when you connect the adapter's tip into it - the old or new one? The new one seems better than the old one which had a tendency to fall out quite easily. The new one seems more secure.

 

Does the light on the new adapter come on when plugged into the mains? Yes

 

You state that the adapter worked in the store, but how did you test this? Was there an exact same model open in the store or just another adapter? The sales assistant asked if I'd definitely buy it if it worked and when I said yes he plugged it into my lappy. The power light flashed amber as it usually does when charging so I thought it was ok.

 

You can also double-check the correct ratings for your laptop (i.e. Voltage & AMP) on the battery and the bottom of your laptop (if still visible) just to make sure what Voltage you should set the new adapter to.

 

Rgds.

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Caro, there are many factors that can affect this sort of issue with a laptop's adapter.

Have you definitely set the Voltage on the new adapter to 20V? All I did was plug it in.

 

So, did you see if the sales assistant set the device to the correct Voltage? Did he/she even mention anything about this to you?!

 

No he didn't. I don't think he knew any more than me.

 

 

If so, then try setting it to 19V and try again. How do I set it?

 

Load the product link you posted in #3 and click on 'Download Manuals' on the left of the product information page. Download the 'Quick install manual' at the top of the table shown, which will open a PDF file. There is a round part to the device, which has a dial for setting the correct Voltage, as shown in Diagram 1 - Find your laptop's Voltage.

I'll have a go.

 

What about the tip, are you sure you're using the correct tip size for your laptop's power socket? It fits very well so I thought it was ok.

 

Is the old adapter the original laptop one or an old replacement? An old replacement.

 

Is your laptop's power socket 'loose' in any way when you connect the adapter's tip into it - the old or new one? The new one seems better than the old one which had a tendency to fall out quite easily. The new one seems more secure.

 

Does the light on the new adapter come on when plugged into the mains? Yes

 

You state that the adapter worked in the store, but how did you test this? Was there an exact same model open in the store or just another adapter? The sales assistant asked if I'd definitely buy it if it worked and when I said yes he plugged it into my lappy. The power light flashed amber as it usually does when charging so I thought it was ok.

 

You can also double-check the correct ratings for your laptop (i.e. Voltage & AMP) on the battery and the bottom of your laptop (if still visible) just to make sure what Voltage you should set the new adapter to.

 

Rgds.

 

Thanks.

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Advice & opinions given by Caro are personal, are not endorsed by Consumer Action Group or Bank Action Group, and are offered informally, without prejudice & without liability. Your decisions and actions are your own, and should you be in any doubt, you are advised to seek the opinion of a qualified professional.

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EUREKA!!

 

Couldn't find the round thing but it had a big sticky label on, and underneath is a slidey thing with the voltage. Changed it from 12 to 20 and it's now working properly - I think!

 

Thanks so much radmm0.

 

DD was saying her replacement cable has never charged the battery on her lappy either, so I'll tell her how to sort hers out too.

 

As an aside, I'd been having problems with the mousepad sticking after it had been on for a while, and it hasn't happened with the new adapter, so I guess it may have been to do with the dodgy wiring on the old one.

 

Thanks to everyone for taking the time. :-D

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Should you be offered help that requires payment please report it to site team.

Advice & opinions given by Caro are personal, are not endorsed by Consumer Action Group or Bank Action Group, and are offered informally, without prejudice & without liability. Your decisions and actions are your own, and should you be in any doubt, you are advised to seek the opinion of a qualified professional.

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Excellent news! Just as an extra important point; in future everyone should try and visit their local INDEPENDENT IT store to get things sorted BEFORE going anywhere near the big shops, as you definitely can't rely on ASDA, TESCO, PC WORLD or any other large retailer's staff to know anything about what they're selling, especially technology stuff!! Maplin's and J Lewis staff are sometimes a bit more capable, but even they are hit and miss.

One other hint for you and all CAGgers is never have your battery in the laptop if you mainly use the laptop with the electricity cable, as it can tend to ruin the battery and shorten its life. A lot of our clients used to think the battery has to be in the laptop for it to work, with or without being connected to the electricity!

Rgds.

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Thanks for the hint radmm0.

 

I did go to a local independent first (not my usual one), but for a cheap adapter it was £30, or there was one for £50. PC World was also £50, and I was going to get one online when I thought about Asda because I was being impatient.

 

I've had my laptop quite a while and didn't want to spend much, because if I had to spend £50 I'd rather put that money towards a new one.

 

It is a shame that it's so difficult for independent traders to be competitive price wise, because undoubtedly they will know much more about what they're doing than sales assistants in the larger retailers. I'd rather go to them if I could, but I'm afraid price has to be a consideration for me, as it does for most. If I have a problem though, I always use a very good local company, and I have bought a part exchange off him in the past and will use them again. The young man started the company, and even had a shop at 14, but on this occasion I didn't go there as he's moved premises and isn't quite so handy for me. Lesson learned though because you're right about independents.

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Advice & opinions given by Caro are personal, are not endorsed by Consumer Action Group or Bank Action Group, and are offered informally, without prejudice & without liability. Your decisions and actions are your own, and should you be in any doubt, you are advised to seek the opinion of a qualified professional.

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