If the Warranty company become aware that it was an exisiting or known problem they will not pay out, i'd have a chat with your dealer.

Is it playground time again? SOTG gives rights on every sale that it applies to for upto 6 years from date of purchase, even on a used item. There is a rather large grey area, about fit for purpose, and of satifactory quality with regards to used cars, which greatly supports the consumer.

There was very little regulation on the PL/HP products 4 years ago, with no legal requirement for training on the staff members hence "un regulated" agreements were the norm in the automotive credit industry. It was down to the consumer to check that the product offered was what they wanted, AND that they had read and understood the entire terms and conditions on the agreement before signing. Its not entirely clear from your post what the situation is. I'm surmising that you bought a car of £25k with a 48 month balloon of XXXX. At the end of the agreement rather than paying the balloon you have returned the car, where it was sold at Auction for £3900 less than XXXX. And now LLoyds (Blackhorse?) are chasing you for £2900, having agreed to reduce the difference by £1000 already. Unfortunately unless it was a Guaranteed Future Value, it would appear that LLoyds are being quite fair by reducing the final payment. - Sorry.

If you'd bothered to have read the original post, you'd have realised that Alfa have already replaced faulty injectors, and an egr valve under warranty, any knock on effect from these failed components would have to be rectified under the same complaint. Therefore the poor running "stuttering" that the op commented on happening less than 2 weeks after taking delivery still stands. The op is still under warranty, and I'd be very suprised if they present him with a bill at the end of all this. That being said they've charged him for a coolant pipe, even when they cover "Engine cooling system" as part of their warranty! Unless of course you think that the following statement is correct: "We've replaced the injectors on your car because they were faulty, however whilst they were faulty they dropped too much fuel into the engine, damaged the inlet/exhaust valves so you'll have to pay for a head rebuild..."

Owner of vehicle will have to pay for investigation. When the replacement engine is going to cost you £3000... £400 doesn't seem like a bad investment! Especially where the claim of a failed DPF doesn't really match up with the events described.

Since February 2011 all HP agreements now have a 14day withdrawal period, this is part of the European Laws, Blackhorse implemented late last year all other companies switched over as of Feb 2011. This is only a right to cancel the credit agreement, not the purchase of the car - just to be clear. Google Consumer Credit Directive changes 2011: Cooling off period You can withdraw from a credit card or loan agreement within 14 days of signing up to it. You must, however, repay the credit and pay interest for each day the credit was drawn down.

This ^^ The DPF is highly unlikely to be the main source of this problem. With the key out there is no diesel being pumped into the engine, therefore the car must be using another fuel source to run, this is usually engine oil from either the turbo as described, or from the sump via failed rings. Stalling the engine, or depriving its air is the only way of stopping it ie stuffing rags into airbox, or exhaust. Otherwise it usually stops when the oil in the sump runs out, and the bearings melt. - its usually fatal to the engine either way. Get an independant report on the failure, then go back to the garage you purchased the vehicle from. They have an obligation under the SOGA to ensure that the goods supplied would resonably be expected to last. (You can claim upto six years in UK law). Assuming you have taken resonable care of the goods, ie serviced it to the manufactures specifications, including the correct type of oil then you should expect a repair or replacement, or to have a partial refund. Stick to your guns, and do not pay.

Wouldn't worry till they present you with a bill, at which point refer to fit for purpose, and ask them to prove that the faults were not present when you purchased the car. Which is basically impossible, thus you won't end up paying anything. The first 6months they have to prove that any fault was NOT present when you purchased the car.

Where possible always buy from a local dealer, ask around your friends, and collegues as to which local dealers have been going for a long time, and which ones have a good reputation. Reputation is important to most garages, usually the medium sized independents are the best bet 30-100 cars, as they are big enough to absorb warranty issues, and still small enough to care. There is no set figure for this, it will depend from car to car, and customer to customer, the dealership will of course try to get as close to the asking price as possible which is a resonable thing to do, however the best way to see if its a fair price is to look at other cars on the market of similar ilk and compare the value. If you don't like the offer, you don't have to buy it. Avoid buying any car that has a minimum part exchange deal, or where the dealer is offering 0% finance on that car, they will be on cars rigged to absorb the extra cost of offering that deal. You can also check the price of various car models through the pricing guides on the internet, most dealers will use either the CAP guide, or Glass's Guide. The retail Parkers/Which guide you can buy in the shops is often VERY inacurate. As with anything these are GUIDES, and not set in stone. You can find one powered by CAP on the Autotrader site, and one directly from Glass's at their .co.uk site. (sorry can't direct link due to postcount) Ultimately a car is worth the price you are happy to pay for it. Its worth doing both valuations as they can often be quite different.

cheers CB, my forum fu seems to have gone awol today

Fact: Virtually all used car dealers buy from Auctions. If you want like for like replacement, that is the best place they can find one for you. Assuming you reject the car you should be looking at a refund of the full purchase price of the car, less any negotiated amount for mileage covered and abnormal wear and tear. And less the initial amount borrowed on finance. The garage will pay the settlement figure directly to the Finance company. It would be unresonable to also expect the full £1300 in repayments back. It might be possible to argue the difference between the inital amount financed, and the settlement figure, along with the finance setup charges. For instance: £10,000 purchase price £2000 part ex - refundable £1000 deposit - refunable £7000 finance - non refunable - finance company settled by car dealer. In this instance a refund of £3000 would be realistic, less any damage - ie the scrape you picked up in the carpark at work. This would cover the SOGA with the dealer, and be reasonable. The finance company is a different entity and you have a different contract with them for the lending of money. The best outcome for you, is getting the car paid off by the dealer, and then a refund on capital repaid and the inital charges. As you have only had the car a few months, the settlement figure will likely be very close to the borrowed amount. The settlement figure would normally include the charges For instance: Borrowed amount £7000 Early Settlement £6600 £400 of the capital having been paid off. Check your HP document regarding charges, usually it will be about £250 in charges, thus the maxium cost to yourself from the finance company using my (made up on the spot) figures is £650. Not the sum of the the repayments. One thing you have never mentioned is, what is the fault that has occured on the car?

That was the last time we had contact with the customer, however Renault have had an ongoing arrangment with the customer, fitting six more regulators over the following 24months. Thus the parts warranty has never had the chance to expire.

Realistically the chap is a car dealer trying to hide from the Sale of Goods act by pretending to be an agent, or private seller. Unfortunately these people give the rest of us Car dealers a bad name. As a trade seller you have entered into a contract with him which is fully covered by the SOGA and other relevant laws, your best bet is to contact trading standards, who will be able to put some pressure on Ebay to release his contact details, which will probably be not as accurate as you'd like them to be. Contacting the previous seller will likely result in you being told that they part exchanged it into a "known" car dealer, or main agent, who have subsequently traded the car to an auction. If you can find out which auction chain you again have an opportunity to find out his contact details, however you might need the support of TS to get the auction to pass you the chaps details. At which point you'll find out he sold the car to a chap in the pub, who sold it to his mate, who sold it to you... Not having an address, or name for the chap is going to be difficult. You other option is to contact him regarding one of the other cars he's selling and get some more information from him, ie his address to send a cheque deposit to... Good luck

Hello, First I’m actually the car dealer, not the customer, and would like to know what you think is a reasonable solution to this. We sold a 2002 Renault Laguna petrol to the customer in Jun 2009. The car developed a fault under during our normal 3 month warranty, and we had the vehicle in replaced a faulty fuel regulator with a new one from Renault and the sent the now happy customer on their way. In December 2009, outside of the warranty, the car failed again with similar symptoms. As it seemed like the same fault, we had the car back in again and diagnosed the fault to be the regulator again. The part was covered by a 12months warranty from Renault, and they agreed to have the vehicle in and fit a new unit free of charge. Customer was happy enough and took the car into the local Renault agent had the part fixed, end of story as far as we were concerned. As far as we were concerned that was the end of the matter. Roll onto this month, where we are contacted by the customer demanding the full money back on the car £2995 as the vehicle was not fit for the purpose supplied. I have confirmed with Renault that they have fitted six fuel regulators to the car over the last 24months. And that due to a supply issue they have been lending the customer a car on several occasions whilst they are waiting for the part to arrive from France. Renaults also admit there seems to be a fault with the design of the unit, and are struggling to provide a reliable supply of good regulators. They are actually reconditioning returned units to put back in cars. The customer has managed to travel 16,000miles since they bought the car. The car is current with Renault waiting for a new regulator to be fitted. The customer has bought a car from another garage prior to contacting us. Renault is still willing to pay for replacement units, and thus it’s still ongoing with them. What would seem a reasonable solution for all involved to this mess?