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I write computer software used by a number of VTS (the "proper" name for MOT stations), I know quite a lot of testers, owners of test stations, my wife is a VTS admin and I've been on VOSA courses. The following is general advice gathered over many years;

 

 

1. Arrange your MOT in advance of it running out. A large percentage of people leave it until the day before and then phone around trying to find a station to do it 'today'. The majority of VTS who can do a test at short notice aren't busy enough (depending on location, the busy ones are booked up for 2-weeks). If a garage is busy, it probably won't want any remedial work and will do a straight test (they will probably also replace bulbs as part of the test). If they aren't busy, they will fail for rubbish reasons to get the mechanical work.

 

2. If you have the free time, ask where the "viewing area" is when you book the car in. All VTS have to have one and the only people who ever ask are immediately flagged as "suspected inspectors".

 

3. If you are not happy with the fail, explain to the examiner why not and ask for a VOSA appeal form. If they are pulling your leg, they will backtrack very, very quickly.

 

4. If you do appeal to VOSA, be prepared for the most thorough test ever. They generally requisition another local VTS for a half-day. The failing tester has to be present and VOSA turn up with two inspectors. It's not unknown for the appeal test to take two hours.

 

5. Because computerisation now prevents any spurious fails, the dodgy route is "emissions". If you're car fails for either emissions or the braking efficiency test, make sure you get the printouts. The testing equipment MUST produce a printed report and you are entitled to a copy. If they can't give you a printed copy because "the printer is out of ink" or any other excuse, point out that it is a requirement by VOSA and that they can't technically conduct tests until the fault is fixed.

 

6. Although there is a maximum test fee, stations can charge what they like and you often see adverts for half-price tests. With the exception of busy cities where discounts are common - Do. Not. Touch. Them. With. A. Bargepole. Like I said in (1) the busy VTS is the most honest and they see the test fee as sufficient profit. If the station is charging £20, they're looking to make their profit on the remedial work, so borderline passes will turn into fails every time.

 

Hope that helps you all.

  • Confused 1

A&L: Settled - £6,200

HFC: Settled - £800

Shell Visa: Settled - £250

Egg: Settled - £700

Mint: Settled - £1200

RBS: Settled - £850

 

The opionions in this post are guaranteed to conform to the laws of physics, but pretty much nothing else...

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I dunno... I've been going to the same centre for the past 5 years, they charge £20 and it's passed every time.

 

The only occasion I took it elsewhere (I left it too late and couldn't get in in time), the bloke not only charged me double but listed several reasons why he wouldn't pass it. These were fair enough but simple little things that I could do myself, like a change of lightbulb in one place, and an arguable chip on the windscreen. He wanted to charge loads to do it and had a big grin on his face whilst telling me.

 

I took my car away and promised to go back, but went straight to Autoglass, who had filled it prior to the test and thought it was pathetic. Then took it to my usual place who had no problem with it and I passed (other things corrected of course. There was one issue that needed work, but they charged over £100 LESS than the first bloke quote me).

 

It seems to me that it's the official dealers who rip people off the most and seem to charge the most. Any experience I've had with dealer's garages (eg Skoda and Nissan) and I've had to sell one of my vital organs to pay for it!

But then again, what do I know?

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Sorry, my bad. The exception to the discount rule is metropolitan areas, especially London, where the competition is so high most centres discount. I should have been a bit clearer on that! (hence the ninja-edit above).

 

Main dealers have to bilk customers double to pay for the £2m dealership contract, which is why they charge £95/hour or more (our local BMW dealership is a staggering £125/hour). Curiously though, since the dumping of the block exclusion malarky (meaning you can get a new car serviced anywhere without effecting your warranty), main dealers can often be the cheapest place to buy spares. Our local Vauxhall dealership is the cheapest place to buy most common spares...

A&L: Settled - £6,200

HFC: Settled - £800

Shell Visa: Settled - £250

Egg: Settled - £700

Mint: Settled - £1200

RBS: Settled - £850

 

The opionions in this post are guaranteed to conform to the laws of physics, but pretty much nothing else...

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Theres an MOT test list in your haynes manuel.

Go through as much as you can reach and check and change.

 

Haynes car manuels used to be about £ 12 may be dearer now but they can save you alot of money.

 

This will eliminate alot of the unecessary failing for light bulbs, worn wipers, basic diy things realy.

 

Some places will still do something like a pre- mot, a check over and listing of what you need doing. Say you would like a check over as you are going for your MOT, but you do not want a pre MOT..

 

(Do this about 5-6 weeks before you plan to have your MOT done, this will then flag the more exspensive things.)

 

If you say you actually want a pre MOT this will be registered and you may find your self with a large bill sooner than you wished.

 

Another tip is when booking your MOT explain to teh garage you wnat anything minor fixed at the same time as you do not want to rebook and pay another MOT charge. Wipers, Headlight alinement, blocked washers and even indicater bulbs and more can be rectified in minutes.

 

hope this helps

 

BL

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  • 2 months later...
  • 3 months later...

Hi,

 

Like all the new joiners to this forum, I am probably at late for the advice contained in this post. I think I may have been conned with my MOT test. No less than 6 reasons for rejection, all of them attributed to 'excessive corrosion' -- probably the most subjective of all the test results. The centre wanted to do an expensive weld repair for 500 quid to get it passed. Unfortunately I was not present when the testing was done. I have refused their offer of repair and plan to appeal after getting an opinion from my regular repair guy.

 

Would the appeal test be restricted to the failures mentioned in the report or will it be a complete test all over again ?

 

Does anybody know of any successful appeals to date ?

 

Thanks & regards,

 

johnts

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Here you go have a read of this...Its from one of this sites main sponsors...you should be able to find all the info to answer your questions...

 

MOT Cost Cutting: Slice the cost of repairs | MoneySavingExpert.com

 

Let us know how you got on....

 

Good Luck.....

AS I SAID.....

"ENOUGH'S ENOUGH".....

I THINK IT'S ABOUT TIME I FOUGHT BACK.....

DON'T YOU....

:D

"First they ignore you, then they laugh at you, then they fight you, then you WIN" Mahatma Gandhi

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I would like to add that you have up to 14 days from the date of the test to appeal unless it is for corrosion (up to 3 months). This works both ways if you feel something has failed that shouldn't have or something has passed that should've failed. You should read the appeal form thoroughly and not have any of the repairs on the fail sheet carried out (even if you aren't querying them specifically) Be prepared to pay again for a full test (VOSA rules) . I've only ever seen one appeal test and as said it did drag on a while. So far touch wood I've never been the subject of one.

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  • 3 years later...

I could do with some advice on an MOT failure.

 

Both items on which my 01 Reg Nissan pick-up was recently failed have been exactly the same for the last three years, when it was always passed by the same main dealer!!

 

1. The bracket holding the rear end of the exaust pipe broke through corrosion three years ago, but I fixed this by binding it in place with several turns of stout galvanised wire. These hold it in place just as firmly as did the original bracket. The dealer says the bracket must now be replaced. Why, after passing my repair as OK for three years?

 

2. There has been a slight leak from the power steering for at least three years, but I have simply topped up every couple of thousand miles, and have never before been failed for this. Now they tell me a pipe has to be replaced. A spare one will not be available until the end of the July, and I am due to take the vehicle on holiday, carrying my U.S. style camper before then. Why have they suddenly changed their mind about this very minor fault? Have MOT rules been changed in the last year?

 

I do not want to cancel my holiday, but cannot go unless I get a pass as it is. Is there anything I can do in the short time available? Can I get the vehicle re-tested elsewhere?

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  • 8 years later...

This topic was closed on 11 March 2019.

If you have a problem which is similar to the issues raised in this topic, then please start a new thread and you will get help and support there.

If you would like to post up some information which is relevant to this particular topic then please flag the issue up to the site team and the thread will be reopened.

- Consumer Action Group

A&L: Settled - £6,200

HFC: Settled - £800

Shell Visa: Settled - £250

Egg: Settled - £700

Mint: Settled - £1200

RBS: Settled - £850

 

The opionions in this post are guaranteed to conform to the laws of physics, but pretty much nothing else...

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