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    • As I recall the only thing you tried telling us was based on a quote that you selectively edited by Lord James of Blackheath. You misrepresented it as a statement of fact when it was actually a question which was laughed at by his peers in the House of Lords.  We told you it was garbage, you asked us to prove it and we did.   Remember?
    • you need to realise that for every person that does come to CAG and register and tell their story...there are poss 10'000 that don't but search the interweb whereby threads that are here pop up relating to like issues they are searching upon.   Most CAG siteteam and many other registered Caggers give advice that bears this in mind and post information which not only informs the starter of a thread upon what to do, but also takes into consideration the readers from the interweb that also read the relevant advice given that might not be brave enough to register and fess up.   to that end, there is very little alternative than to appear to give 'grief' [you deserve it - tough] to a cagger should certain previous advice not have been followed.....yours is a very classic case of such. hey I've found a backdoor CCJ.   to put it bluntly, had you have followed such previous advice, you most certainly would not be in the situation you are in here now.. .so by example, not giving you grief, for future readers...………..   ...never ever move without informing a debt owner of a move of address on any consumer debt that you last used or paid within the last say 7yrs. your credit file is a major key to ascertaining that information.... .but don't just read this advice come to the consumeractiongroup.co.uk website and let us help.   lecture over... what can you do..or more importantly....what can a claimant do now they have a default forthwith judgement against you. well we can't guess.... they might simply ignore it as 1000's of people with CCJ's find out..but it becomes an issue should you wish to say get a mortgage, remortgage or further credit.   i'm not going to enter into any of that here...that's for the reader to start a thread here and seek advice on their individual situation specific to them as you have done....   so...  bearing the all of the above in mind...over to you with regard to this backdoor CCJ.   as for the other debts that you didn't action before...go read your old thread and action what appropriate advice is given there for each type of debt that has been given should you wish to avoid any further backdoor CCJ's.   dx                    
    • hello my very good helpful friend. I am afraid to say that i did not. As i did not realise the relevance of it.   Should i be doing this right now of anyone on my credit file ?   Plz don't give me grief if u have already advised me...   do i do the ccs request now to everybody in that thread ?    
    • aha busted and stupid ...no wonder you've got mixed information here. never trust anything they say ..they have a very bad reputation for stating the truth.   now can you go get your credit file please..   there are cases whereby a council on historic CTAX debts do go for a county court CCJ, but a liability order from a magistrates court has far more clout legally than a county court CCJ and i've never heard of a court sending a bailiff out for 'multiple' CCJ collection.   me thinks he is pulling the wool here a bit and has looked at your credit file and seen CCJ's too so thought he'd chance his arm and use those as further leverage.   don't worry about the sat visit simply ignore do not answer the door if he appears. your task is too gather data at present.   credit file please..        
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BlueLittleLady

Amazon does not allow formal complaints - how can I log a complaint with Amazon?

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Hi,

 

I bought a voltage converter from Amazon to use for an American TV.

While using it the converter started buzzing really loudly, suddenly overheated, and killed my flatscreen Samsung TV.

 

Since I bought the product there are some very bad reviews on the product that include a person whose item exploded as a result of the item being faulty, so its not just me.

 

I've been trying to get in touch with Amazon complaints department as I wanted to log a formal complaint about the converter and the TV,

and I did this over a chat with Amazon's complaints department (- apparently). Amazon wouldn't allow me to log a complaint or do anything.

 

Here's a snippet of how the conversation with Amazon Complaints team went:

 

11:45 PM GMT M: Based on our conversation,

I understand I am not allowed to make a formal complaint.

 

I am not allowed to get a link to your compensation policy.

And I am not allowed to get compensation for the items damaged in my property by your dangerous faulty product.

 

Based on this conversation I understand amazon takes no responsibility for items that are dangerous to people and private property.

And I am also not allowed to contact the Amazon’s legal department. Is that right?

 

11:48 PM GMT Parthasarathy: I will forward this issue to our internal team and will make sure that you will not face this problem again.

 

11:50 PM GMT Me: Yes, you can forward this to the internal team.

 

In the mean time I would like Amazon to register a formal complaint on the following grounds:

11:52 PM GMT Me:

1) I am being blocked from logging a formal complaint.

2) I am not allowed to get a link to your compensation policy.

3) I am not allowed to get compensation for the items damaged in my property by your dangerous faulty product.

4) Amazon takes no responsibility for items that are dangerous to people and private property.

5) I am being blocked from contacting the Amazon’s legal department.

 

11:52 PM GMT Parthasarathy: Okay. I will now forward this issue to concerned team and will assure that this will not happen again in future.

 

11:53 PM GMT Me: Can you please give a reference number for my complaint. And when should I expect a written response to my complaint please?

 

11:54 PM GMT Parthasarathy: I'm sorry it's an internal contact and we don't have the option to disclose it's output.

 

11:56 PM GMT Me: If you register a formal complaint, you have to give the customer a reference number, it's got nothing to do with internal contacts or disclosure. Also, ever formal complaint has to have a written response. Again, it's got nothing to do with internal contacts, disclosure or outputs. Are you saying that you refuse to register a formal complaint?

 

11:58 PM GMT Parthasarathy: We understand how you feel, we’re very sorry. We’re going to take care of this and you can trust us that it will not happen again in future

 

How can I file a formal complaint with Amazon if Amazon does not want it?

What should I do?

 

Thank you.

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when did you buy the converter?

how did you pay for it?


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ORDER PLACED: 26 October 2017

I payed via a debit card that I always use when I buy things on Amazon.

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it has gone wrong within 30days

under CRA they should refund you without question.

 

if they don't

get onto your bank an initiate a chargeback.

 

dx


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That won't get his TV replaced

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no didn't take in that bit.

cheap and nasty switch mode powersupply.

consequential losses then under cra?


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I am assuming the converter was SOLD by Amazon and Fulfilled by Amazon.

 

I have just looked at one converter

 

http://tinyurl.com/ybfvzdon

 

I don't know if that is the one you chose but in my opinion that one should have the drawback in the main listing, not further down the page.

 

A converter that enables a 110Vac device (USA mains voltage) to be powered on a 240Vac mains outlet. Allows use of US electrical equipment with 2 or 3 pin plugs in the UK. Maximum Loan is 100W. Please Note: These transformers are not suitable for constant use and cannot be used for more than an hour at a time and they are not silent as they make a slight humming noise.

 

I think the above is a main selling point and should be highlighted further up the page.

 

I would put this complaint in writing and either emailed or by post to their UK base (this one is best) Laying out the grounds of complaint and including the cost of replacing the TV and if they still won't see a semblance of common sense, escalate it to the relevant Ombudsman.


If you are asked to deal with any matter via private message, PLEASE report it.

Everything I say is opinion only. If you are unsure on any comment made, you should see a qualified solicitor

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This Is clearly written in the description.

 

 

Description

 

 

Product Description

 

 

A converter that enables a 110Vac device (USA mains voltage) to be powered on a 240Vac mains outlet. Allows use of US electrical equipment with 2 or 3 pin plugs in the UK. Maximum Loan is 100W. Please Note: These transformers are not suitable for constant use and cannot be used for more than an hour at a time and they are not silent as they make a slight humming noise.

 

 

Pretty clear to me.

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how do you know the tv doesn't work?

got another 110v converter?


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Hi everyone, thank you for your replies.

 

@dx100uk and @silverfox1961 - I bought this one:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0014FLDUG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cheap and cheerful, I thought it would do the job. It didn't even cross my mind that it would be a dodgy item as I never had any major problems with Amazon, I sort of trusted Amazon lol.

 

"how do you know the tv doesn't work?

got another 110v converter?"

@dx100uk You have a good point. I am assuming the TV doesn't work because it dimmed down over a spay of around 3-5 secs until the screen became black. Someone in a local shop suggested that the TV is gone, so I have taken their word for it. But you are right, I should really test it with another converter. However, if the TV doesn't work I'll lose even more money, as I'll end up having to keep a converter I don't need.

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so if your TV is greater the 33VA [or 30 watts]

your problem sadly.

 

how do you know the TV is killed [if you mean broken?]

if you've not got another 110v converter to test it on?


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It says this

 

Ideal for radios Hi-Fi systems and other small appliances Rating up to 45VA

 

Also this

Televisions vary (check rating) but typically USM300Computer 5A x 120v = 600VA

 

So its not rated for use on tv's as far as I can tell

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I am not an expert in this. The label on the back of the TV says AC110-120V -60Hz 95W.

 

Yes, I'll order another converter from somewhere else to test it on just to be sure! Thank you @dx100uk.

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Yes, I'll order another converter from somewhere else to test it on just to be sure! Thank you @dx100uk.

 

make sure it can handle 95w :)


IMO

:-):rant:

 

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doh!

 

so the TV takes 3 times the power the converter can safely give out without going bang

 

your fault sadly

nothing for amazom to do if the tv don't work your fault as well.

 

i'd be getting atleast a 150W or 200w one [W is the same as VA]


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I am not an expert in this. The label on the back of the TV says AC110-120V -60Hz 95W.

 

 

Assuming its a 5amp fuse then its 600VA.

If its a 13amp fuse in plug then its1,560VA.

Both far more than the 45VA max.

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no didn't take in that bit.

cheap and nasty switch mode powersupply.

consequential losses then under cra?

 

 

 

ONLY if used in accordance with manufactures instructions.

 

Its now been established that the product was used outside this scope and not in accordance.

Unfortunately no refund

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correct

but

5a is no 600VA

13a is not 1560VA


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correct

but

5a is no 600VA

13a is not 1560VA

 

 

Here is the conversion rating in the manufactures guidelines

 

You can calculate the power rating (in Watts or VA) by multiplying the current by the voltage.

 

Here are some examples;

Electric shavors 0.05A x 120v = 6VA use USM45

Radios 0.1A x 120v = 12VA use USM45

C.D. Players 0.15A x 120v = 18VA use USM45

Christmas tree lights 0.2A x 120v = 24VA use USM45

Games Console 0.35A x 120v = 36VA use USM100

Televisions vary (check rating) but typically USM300Computer 5A x 120v = 600VA use USM1000

***NB these are just examples please always check the actual rating***

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BlueLittleLady

note from the amazon pic of the product, the label says for 'long term' working mode its rating is 30. and for 'short term' use (up to 1 hr) its up to 45.

so when you look for another converter, double check its long term mode use rating. that can handle a tv.

hopefully, your tv is still ok and it was just the converter that blew (if it was properly fused)


IMO

:-):rant:

 

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Here is the conversion rating in the manufactures guidelines

 

You can calculate the power rating (in Watts or VA) by multiplying the current by the voltage.

 

Here are some examples;

Electric shavors 0.05A x 120v = 6VA use USM45

Radios 0.1A x 120v = 12VA use USM45

C.D. Players 0.15A x 120v = 18VA use USM45

Christmas tree lights 0.2A x 120v = 24VA use USM45

Games Console 0.35A x 120v = 36VA use USM100

Televisions vary (check rating) but typically USM300Computer 5A x 120v = 600VA use USM1000

***NB these are just examples please always check the actual rating***

 

silly beggars run at 120v hence my mistook..


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from that then, for tv constant (long term) use, is it that a converter advertised va(w) rating of around 600+ is needed?


IMO

:-):rant:

 

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well the problem will be the cost they are incredibility expensive

you don't need a 600W one no

 

theres a 100w one there that's £40

but that's a bit too close for extended usage. re heat and safety

 

TBH it would be far cheaper to buy a new TV as one that only draws 95w must be quite small anyway

 

150+W converters start from £80 upwards


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Might be worth investigating if a new power supply can be fitted.

 

If you're technically minded (and electrically competent), you may be able to replace the PSU. If not, a local appliance repair place may be able to give you a price to replace the PSU with a UK rated one.

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