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FORD MONDEO Cutting Out


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I have a continuing issue with my 2005 Ford Mondeo TDCI continually losing power and cutting out completely under "load" - under acceleration.

This is clearly a VERY dangerous situation especially if attempting overtaking on a busy motorway.

The vehicle engine cuts out but can be immediately restarted by turning the ignition on and off and restarting the car - even while still moving.

What alarms me is that FORD must obviously know there is a problem with this happening - a short investigation on various web "forums" shows this problem to be widespread.......the additional worrying aspect is that NO-ONE appears to have the definitive solution to this! even Ford garages do not seem to have a cure or knowledge of the cause of this dangerous occurrence.

 

Does ANYONE have the answer???? Without ' try this / try that/ and if it's not that it could be this !!!!!! All expensive attempts!

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yes i'm gonna say try this,try that....typically things that would cut the engine off are sensors, not knowing much about diesel engines, but i think you have something called a lambda sensor....sensors in general are not that expensive and any one with a small degree of mechanical knowledge can change them.

otherwise just search tge various car forums and someone may have a more inciteful answer

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Neil, thanks for your interest but.....take this the right way mate.....you have been no help at all......I've been around countless web pages and forums searching for what seems the "holy grail" and no has the answer.....except, try this try that and keep spending in the meantime.......some have just said, scrap it.....but I'm not gonna ado that......apart from this "gremlin" it is a good car!

 

One other very annoying aspect is that the car has very great difficulty in actually starting first thing......then, once it does start - often with persuasion from a few squirts of "Easy Start", the car stops and starts all day no problem.....at one stage I was beginning to think the car didn't like the dark!!!!! LOL......And please no-one suggest "glow plugs.....it is nowhere near cold enough to need glow plugs at this time - !

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First of all, glow plugs have nothing to do with the ambient temperature. They heat the a specific spot inside each cylinder to 100's of degrees to assist in the "cold" start of a car. It makes no difference if the temperature outside is minus 20 or +40. A cold start is when an engine is started when cold. Hot would be 90+ degrees so if you keep your car in an oven overnight, you wont need glow plugs. Get me?

 

Secondly. This does sound like a lamda sensor. You will likely have 2 of them. One in the cat and one in the first silence/early part of exhaust.

The lamda senses air quality fuel/air burnt output and tries to determine if the mix in the injectors is the right mix. It may run fine at idle, but under load during acceleration, it might not be able to sense correctly and the car stalls as it puts too much air or fuel into the cylinder.

 

Other faults may be causing this but depending on the age if the car, it would probably not be cost effective to investigate and rectify. For instance, if the car is 10 years old, then ford will not care. Its past its life expectancy and therefore not their problem any longer.

 

Your only option is to either start fault finding yourself by changing one thing at a time or take it to a diesel specialist and ask them to do it. But expect a bill many times the cars value. If they change the injectors for instance, which could be the fault, you could be looking at £1500 for that alone.

 

What age?

What model?

Any mods?

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I have a continuing issue with my 2005 Ford Mondeo TDCI continually losing power and cutting out completely under "load" - under acceleration.

This is clearly a VERY dangerous situation especially if attempting overtaking on a busy motorway.

The vehicle engine cuts out but can be immediately restarted by turning the ignition on and off and restarting the car - even while still moving.

What alarms me is that FORD must obviously know there is a problem with this happening - a short investigation on various web "forums" shows this problem to be widespread.......the additional worrying aspect is that NO-ONE appears to have the definitive solution to this! even Ford garages do not seem to have a cure or knowledge of the cause of this dangerous occurrence.

 

Does ANYONE have the answer???? Without ' try this / try that/ and if it's not that it could be this !!!!!! All expensive attempts!

 

I have had the exact same problems. Same car too. I had trouble starting the car last winter, replaced glow plugs didn't solve it so replaced the starter motor and that solves that issue. As for the stalling when accelerating mine only seems to do it when I'm 4th + gear and have had the car still in the outside lane a couple of times. I'm thinking it may be the fuel pump or the turbo either one Will cost more than the car.

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Many thanks "Grumps".............car is 2004 2.0Litre DCI 130 High Mileage 187,000 It is an ex-polce vehicle and I suspect had been "doctored" 'cos when it goes ......IT GOES !!!!!! Again - we seem to be getting into the realms of ......it could be this / it could be that / and keep a full wallet handy?????

You are correct Ford do not care - they keep saying this is NOT a common fault......just take a short look at the many Ford forums around !!!!! ????

 

To be honest......I can handle the cutting out as I know now how to sense something is gonna happen, and I know what revs / gear to be in to avoid it! Not the most convenient I know.

The thing that is bothering me most at the moment is the morning no-start! I've been giving it a sniff of "easy - start" direct into the air box intake......and it starts right away - then runs all day NO PROBLEM.....even stopping for a few hours. I'm told the car can develop an "addiction" to Easy Start though !!!!!!!......how does that work ?????? I've also been told glow plugs are a bitch to change......one mechanic indicated that they won't come out due to carbon build-up on the inside !!!!!! That would then result in a "head-off" job......and the resultant empty wallet!!!! Think I'll get a cycle !!!!!

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Join our ever-growing "club" Haven mate......re the cutting out.......same here, if you labour the car under/around 2000 revs and then try to increase speed in the same gear.....oooops no power then cut-out......and Ford say this is NOT a common problem!!!!!????? I would subscribe to your theory about the starter motor......BUT how do you explain it starts no problem with a wee whiff of "Easy Start" ???? Also the fact the car starts no problem after the initial no-start! Personally I still blame the darkness !!!!!!! I don't think the Ford Mondeo likes the dark!

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The easy start makes the explosion in the cylinder much easier. Its what the glow plug should be doing. It super heats the air making an explosion in the cylinder easier.

Yes, glow plugs can be a b**** to take out, but it wont be until you try will you know. They can just come straight out. Especially if its an ex plod car, they should be well serviced.

Plod cars are not often fettled as they were in the old days so that should be no issue.

Personally, id have a shot at trying the glow plugs but just for the starting issue.

The cutting out issue..i still have my money on the lamda sensor.

A 2004 mondeo will have common issues like this. Its not a design fault or something ford should care about. Its just age.

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Because the starter motor was not working to full capacity it was draining the battery. No harm in taking it to the local garage and getting them to check the glow plugs to start with. It is one of those problems that is more trial and error, i started with replacing the fuel filter, then the glow plugs, then the starter motor then the battery.

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Fix or repair daily.

 

 

Many thanks to both of you for your efforts - it is GREATLY appreciated. I'm gonna ask my local Ford dealership to give me a "second mortgage" on replacing the glow plugs.....that could be the start.....at least if the car will start (especially first thing in the morning) then it takes part of the pain away. many thanks once more.....I'll try and keep you advised!

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Because the starter motor was not working to full capacity it was draining the battery. No harm in taking it to the local garage and getting them to check the glow plugs to start with. It is one of those problems that is more trial and error, i started with replacing the fuel filter, then the glow plugs, then the starter motor then the battery.

 

The very fact the "easy start" did the trick seems to eliminate starter and battery problems....especially when the car continues to start fine allay thereafter - after the initial problem.

Ah yes......the "trial and error" route.....chequebook/wallet at the ready !!!!!!

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I had an 03 Tdci and it would sometimes cut out or go into limp mode with a flashing glow plug light. Then if failed to start. Turns out it was the cam chain position sensor that was mis behaving. Got it changed and it was right as rain after that.

Jeremy

 

Computer Problems? Give me a shout...

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The very fact the "easy start" did the trick seems to eliminate starter and battery problems....especially when the car continues to start fine allay thereafter - after the initial problem.

Ah yes......the "trial and error" route.....chequebook/wallet at the ready !!!!!!

 

 

FOOTNOTE...... I really have no objection to paying to get the vehicle fixed !!!!!!......It's paying out a huge wad and NOT to get it fixed that really annoys me! "I'm so sorry sir, we've changed the "doodah" but it hasn't helped.....we now think it is the "dadums"......£250.00 please and when can we book your car in again to get the "datums" looked at. !!!!!

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No harm in getting the glow plugs checked out. As much as i ended up paying out for more work initially it was a problem with the glow plugs that started the problem i was just unlucky that the starter motor was also playing up and making it hard to start the car which in turn drained the battery.

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No harm in getting the glow plugs checked out. As much as i ended up paying out for more work initially it was a problem with the glow plugs that started the problem i was just unlucky that the starter motor was also playing up and making it hard to start the car which in turn drained the battery.

 

 

So I'm assuming you are back to being a happy motorist then Haven. Problems solved? Thank you for your info. Regards Bill

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Drop one of the odb plug-ins and see what errors the engine management system is reporting.

These are a couple of quid of the bay.

 

Search

ELM327 ODB2 ODB-II Wireless Bluetooth Car Auto Diagnostic Scan

You know what IS patriotic?

Loving your country enough to care for its old and poor, fund its institutions, unite its communities, feed, house and educate its children, restore and live in balance with its environment, plan with care for its future, build its alliances, and perhaps above all - tell it the truth

 

 

The Tory Legacy

Record high: taxes, immigration, excrement in waterways, energy company/crony profits

Record low: living standards and investment

Crumbling Hospitals, schools, council services, businesses and roads

They squander taxpayer money by the £thousands on a failed ex-PMs luxury troughing on a plane, rather than feed UK children

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Drop one of the odb plug-ins and see what errors the engine management system is reporting.

These are a couple of quid of the bay.

 

Search

ELM327 ODB2 ODB-II Wireless Bluetooth Car Auto Diagnostic Scan

 

 

Thanks tobyjugg2 done that too but nothing ever shows.........I think these "low-end" OBD2 diagnostic machines are pretty basic and don't throw up the full picture!

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Thanks tobyjugg2 done that too but nothing ever shows.........I think these "low-end" OBD2 diagnostic machines are pretty basic and don't throw up the full picture!

 

Even reported the blown bulb on my 2004 1.4 tdci

 

There is an android app that connects to these - well worth the tiny amount it costs - Torque pro

http://techpp.com/2014/03/18/obd-apps/

 

 

(I'm referring to the bluetooth odb connectors which connect to your phone, not the more expensive tools with small diagnostic screens)

 

 

Let me add another suggestion:

Turn on the ignition when cold and wait for all the engine lights to go off without trying to start the car.

Switch it off.

Switch it back on again and again wait the few seconds for all the dash lights to go off then try to start it.

 

It gives the heaters two goes at warming the engine (heating is needed in all but the hottest weather for diesels) - usually as effective as a squirt of easystart if it is heaters, but no difference if its something else,

although it will also help if you have leaking injectors (look for damp/oily around the injevtors).

You know what IS patriotic?

Loving your country enough to care for its old and poor, fund its institutions, unite its communities, feed, house and educate its children, restore and live in balance with its environment, plan with care for its future, build its alliances, and perhaps above all - tell it the truth

 

 

The Tory Legacy

Record high: taxes, immigration, excrement in waterways, energy company/crony profits

Record low: living standards and investment

Crumbling Hospitals, schools, council services, businesses and roads

They squander taxpayer money by the £thousands on a failed ex-PMs luxury troughing on a plane, rather than feed UK children

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there is no need to be rude....it is obvious you have tried all the other car forums regarding this and not found the "holy grail" so you come on here hoping it would be different....you have been told twice now to look at the sensors.....when a car has problems such as this there is quite clearly an issue with the fuel delivery...be that the pump, filter, injectors, sensors or quite possibly all of them, after all it is an old car. you have no choice but to start replacing things, cleaning things up...if you don't do it then yes pay a mechancic to do it for you, most of these things can be replaced by anyone and you will find plenty of videos online on how to do it that will help you....the first step would be to try some type of fuel/engine cleaning product to get rid of any buildup....and what on earth are you doing driving it if as you state it puts you in a "Dangerous" position? by the way although it was a petrol my old megane had a similar issue and I changed the sensors and all was good afterwards

Neil, thanks for your interest but.....take this the right way mate.....you have been no help at all......I've been around countless web pages and forums searching for what seems the "holy grail" and no has the answer.....except, try this try that and keep spending in the meantime.......some have just said, scrap it.....but I'm not gonna ado that......apart from this "gremlin" it is a good car!

 

One other very annoying aspect is that the car has very great difficulty in actually starting first thing......then, once it does start - often with persuasion from a few squirts of "Easy Start", the car stops and starts all day no problem.....at one stage I was beginning to think the car didn't like the dark!!!!! LOL......And please no-one suggest "glow plugs.....it is nowhere near cold enough to need glow plugs at this time - !

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there is no need to be rude....it is obvious you have tried all the other car forums regarding this and not found the "holy grail" so you come on here hoping it would be different....you have been told twice now to look at the sensors.....when a car has problems such as this there is quite clearly an issue with the fuel delivery...be that the pump, filter, injectors, sensors or quite possibly all of them, after all it is an old car. you have no choice but to start replacing things, cleaning things up...if you don't do it then yes pay a mechancic to do it for you, most of these things can be replaced by anyone and you will find plenty of videos online on how to do it that will help you....the first step would be to try some type of fuel/engine cleaning product to get rid of any buildup....and what on earth are you doing driving it if as you state it puts you in a "Dangerous" position? by the way although it was a petrol my old megane had a similar issue and I changed the sensors and all was good afterwards

 

 

Neil there was never any intention to be rude at all.....and if I sounded that way, I apologise profusely. It was meant as a "tongue in cheek" remark..... hence the take it the right way part). You are correct in everything you say though. All my problem so it is up to me to sort it out! Thank you for your input.

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So I'm assuming you are back to being a happy motorist then Haven. Problems solved? Thank you for your info. Regards Bill

 

The none starting on a cold morning is solved but still no idea what is causing it to stall under acceleration. That will be another trial and error but I suspect substantially more expensive!

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I would bet my mortgage that you'd have the P0251 DTC stored in the PCM (fuel metering control fault). What this means is the engine is cutting out due to the fuel pressure being unable to meet the required amount by the PCM.

 

This is generally caused by worn injectors, and the general remedy on these engines is to change all 4 diesel injectors (you should aim to change them after 100,000 miles or 10 years). However, as a starting point, it's always advised to change the fuel filter first (this should be changed yearly at the service interval).

 

It's expensive, a Delphi injectior for this engine will cost around £125 on sites like eBay (new or remanufactured). Changing them is simple (you'll need an injector socket), however they will need coding into the ECU (they have a code on the body of the injectior). Failure to code them in will lead to running problems, and a potential non starting engine.

 

What's happening is the worn injectors will be leaking back fuel into the leak off pipes (injectors can be tested by performing a leak off test which includes measuring the amount of diesel that's returned through the leak off pipes over a test cycle, an excessive amount will point to a shot injector that needs replacing).

 

A small amount of leak back is normal, however excessive leak back causes problems with the fuel system maintaining pressure in the fuel rail. Any competent mechanic will perform a leak off test after reading the DTC codes to check for injector wear.

 

When excess fuel is leaked back to the high pressure fuel pump, the system struggles to maintain both pressure, and a backlog of diesel from the injector leak off to the fuel pump. The pressure isn't relived because diesel is leaking back at a rate faster than the pump can handle.

 

The PCM will then cut the engine to stop any potential damage being caused by this. Generally the glow plug light will flash (indicating a fault being recorded, and limp home mode with limited power). The fault allows you to drive with limited power, however from my experience the engine will cut out completely after a few seconds of limited power.

 

On some of the older TDCi's (2002/2003), the fuel pumps would wear out over time (the bearings would break down), causing swarf (microscopic metallic particles) to pass through the fuel rail and ultimately the injectors at extremely high pressures. Over time this would contaminate the high pressure system, leading to premature wear.

 

Under hard acceleration you'll suffer this fault because more fuel is being leaked back. It's a dangerous situation, because the car can cut out when pulling out of junctions, onto roundabouts, overtaking.

 

Personally I'd budget upto around £1000 to have it repaired correctly if 4 injectors need changing.

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