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    • Again, massive thanks to you for the help provided. Two questions: Should I show the dealership correspondence from Blue Motor Finance? Should I send them this letter?   I have changed a couple of bits from your letter. Please see below the final draft:   Dear Sir/Madam, Thank you for your email on 6th December 2021 As you know, this is a hire purchase agreement and as such you are effectively the dealer to all intents and purposes. You have a contract with the dealer but that is a different matter and of course it isn't a contract governed by the consumer rights act because neither of you are consumers. However I am a consumer and I'm protected by the consumer credit act and you have all the responsibilities to me as if you were the retailer (which you are). You are a business which is regulated under the FCA – but also you are a business which is regulated under the consumer credit act and this makes you liable under any consumer legislation which I enjoy – in particular, the Consumer Rights Act 2015. The retailer has already indicated that they are prepared to repair the first fault which occurred – the seatbelt fault.  I'm fully prepared to drive the car back to Blackburn for this repair and also for a further diagnosis of any other defects. Of course, I shall be claiming the costs of this from you – in particular if it means that the car has to stay with the dealer overnight or longer and I have to return at a later date. By insisting on this option,  I take it that you do not have any objection in me driving a faulty vehicle for over three hours, therefore assuming the risk of making the transmission issue worse or even risking a possible catastrophic transmission failure.   As a gesture of goodwill to you, I'm prepared to try and take steps to mitigate your losses by taking the car to a repairer local to me in order to have the work and diagnosis carried out there. I should warn you that if you do prefer me to return the vehicle to the retailer in Blackburn, then I may well decide to carry out my own independent inspection should the retailer not agree that the faults which I am describing exist. If an independent inspection confirms my own view, then I shall be looking to you to reimburse the cost of this inspection in addition to any other costs I reasonably incur. You may feel that it is more cost-effective for you in the long term if I have the car repaired locally and diagnosed locally because then this will also amount to an independent inspection and avoid further damage to the transmission.   In respect of your reference to a warranty, please stop trying to fob me off on to warranties. I am perfectly happy to rely on my statutory consumer rights – and I think you had better understand that. I hope you also understand that warranties are subordinate to statutory consumer rights.   You say that your business is regulated by the FCA – and of course that is correct – and that also means that if you start making misleading statements or try to avoid your responsibilities to me then in addition to county court action I am entitled to make a complaint to the financial ombudsman service. The FCA may allow you eight weeks to investigate a problem and to produce a final response, but what the FCA permits you to do is subordinate to my rights under current consumer legislation. Your trumpeting of what you are allowed to do by the FCA is calculated to mislead me. Don't do it. You have sold me a vehicle which is defective and not of satisfactory quality. This is a breach of contract. Your statement that I'm not entitled to recover any reasonable foreseeable losses caused by your breach of contract is incorrect. In particular, your statement that as a consumer I do not have the same entitlement as a business customer is quite wrong – and also calculated to mislead me because I'm sure you must know better. I accept that it is fair enough that the retailer should have an opportunity to inspect the vehicle and to ascertain the fault. As soon as my position is confirmed, then I shall be looking to you to either arrange or at least to agree the cost of repairs so that they can be put in hand without any delay. Don't imagine that that will be as long as eight weeks.   I'm giving you seven days to let me know which course of action you would prefer me to take. I hope you understand that I'm trying to have your best interests in mind at all times. Yours faithfully
    • So long as they aren't unlawfully discriminating against you because of a protected characteristic, I presume that like anybody else they can pick and choose whom they do business with.    I understand places like Amazon and eBay will close "problem" purchaser accounts quite commonly, and will often also close other accounts that they believe are connected to a problem account  (eg same email, same physical address, same payment details etc).
    • Hi 1st all NO I will not turn it down I'm up there with the big boys   china Russia India me   with global warming   lol .  Thank you for your help but iv got nowhere with !  your repair !  As in terms of them replying  or help .its the wrong time year to drag this out fighting them while I got no hot water or heating.  I have left bad reviews on there sites  hoping that will help others from making the same mistake as me  ! joining there scam !.  As for the NEST  yes it's the government backed scheme for ppl on disability an low income to help warm there homes .  Just do what I did ASK   they can only say yes or no  and there supa fast . So thank you . I will be keeping a look in and see if any one else post about  !your repair!  As I can guarantee I wont be the last person scammed.   Cheers . 
    • Sorry yes was on a small screen.   Funny how it says settle at the earliest, but wont allow ooc?   Dx
    • Fraudsters are using the details of firms we authorise to try to convince people that they work for a genuine, authorised firm. Find out more about this 'clone firm'.View the full article
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Looks like bursting batteries what can be done in PC?


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Hi, I wonder if any of you IT buffs might know what the remedy to this is?

 

I opened the PC - a Dell Optiplex 745 to change the little round battery. I noticed these capacitors (I think) which appear to have leaked.

 

Can anyone tell me if these are replaceable/repairable or is the likely end of my motherboard?

 

Thanks

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I opened the PC - a Dell Optiplex 745 to change the little round battery. I noticed these capacitors (I think) which appear to have leaked.

 

Can anyone tell me if these are replaceable/repairable or is the likely end of my motherboard?

 

Repairable, yes. But before you go spending money on getting the capacitors replaced, it would be worth contacting Dell and seeing if they will repair under warranty. Even if the computer is outside the warranty period, they may consider repairing for free as the capacitors should not be leaking.

 

If Dell won't entertain a repair, it may well be cheaper to replace the motherboard or finding another base unit of ebay.

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I think the date of this is 2007 so Dell are going to be stretched to feel obliged to do this I think. Plus I have a feeling this was an old NHS sell off machine, I didn't buy it myself - would that matter?

 

I'll give them a go anyway as I have the service tag details. Many thanks, but by your answer I am presuming these are the capacitors..cheers.

 

Andrew1

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Yes, Capacitors will fail eventually. These are "blown" capacitors.

 

They will have two ratings on the side, the voltage and the uf rating.

 

You can replace these, preferably match them like for like.

 

If you can't find the same brand, look on eBay for Panasonic "Low ESR" capacitors, these will last a long time.

 

The voltage MUST be either the same of higher, the capacitance (uf) must be the same.

 

You can unsolder these from the back of the mainboard, if you dont have a solder sucker, then heat each pad up, and pull it out slightly, repeat until you can remove it. Make sure the replacement capacitor is in the right way around.

 

 

Used to fix monitors that have this exact problem :D

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Just tried dell and they gave me short shrift. :violin:

 

I think the replacement board might be the answer as I am no electrician for that kind of soldering. The Mobo's as you call them are quite cheap. Even a 2nd hand box is fairly cheap.

 

Can anyone tell me though what I might expect to happen here on in as I use this machine daily and I have no idea what these capacitors do or is likely to happen either to them or to the machine. Is it dangerous?, can they catch fire or what? What might be my next experience other than the whole thing going 'phut'?

 

The machine is still working okay so I don't see any changes - yet!!

 

many thanks to all of you thus far

 

A1

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Easy enough to replace, but honestly it isnt worth it.

Any advice i give is my own and is based solely on personal experience. If in any doubt about a situation , please contact a certified legal representative or debt counsellor..

 

 

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They look like rectifiers.

 

The cap, if electrolytic, is almost definitely a filter cap that smooths out the rectified AC line voltage that's then switched and stepped down to yield the various system voltage rails. If so, without that cap, you'd be introducing line harmonics and ripples from rectification into your computer and potentially damage other components (or at least stop them temporarily from working correctly per design) they look like they sit around the north south bridge unless your CPU is not fan cooled.

 

There are bundles on eBay starting at a tenner. Or do you spend a little more and get something current ?

 

If you do replace MB you will most likely need new DDR ram as circa 6 years is probably ddr2. Factor in backing up your data as more than likely a new OS installed will be required.

 

Or get the part number of current off it and Google someone may be breaking and have for a fiver.

 

But back up anyway could go tits up any time.

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They look like rectifiers.

 

The cap, if electrolytic, is almost definitely a filter cap that smooths out the rectified AC line voltage that's then switched and stepped down to yield the various system voltage rails. If so, without that cap, you'd be introducing line harmonics and ripples from rectification into your computer and potentially damage other components (or at least stop them temporarily from working correctly per design) they look like they sit around the north south bridge unless your CPU is not fan cooled.

 

There are bundles on eBay starting at a tenner. Or do you spend a little more and get something current ?

 

If you do replace MB you will most likely need new DDR ram as circa 6 years is probably ddr2. Factor in backing up your data as more than likely a new OS installed will be required.

 

Or get the part number of current off it and Google someone may be breaking and have for a fiver.

 

But back up anyway could go tits up any time.

 

Ignore this guy. 100% sure these are capacitors. Ive fixed motherboards and monitors with the same issue.

 

If you go down the new MB route, you will be better off with a new pc.

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Ignore this guy. 100% sure these are capacitors. Ive fixed motherboards and monitors with the same issue.

 

If you go down the new MB route, you will be better off with a new pc.

 

I don't see where the poster say "looks like rectifiers" is wrong.

Whilst the actual (AC -> DC) rectifier itself will be diode(s), it is still entirely correct to consider the filter capacitor as part of the whole "rectifier" assembly.

 

I think telling the OP to ignore him is wrong, as why do you feel his point (may appear to work fine but risks further damage) is incorrect?

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Should I have said it is a rectifying capacitor used to smooth the ouput from the diodes? Sorry. My bad. Nevertheless best case is it keeps working, worse case is a burning smell and new MB. In this case they would have been used to smooth the 5v 12v 3.3v lines. Hopefully dell put some paired redundancy in, many causes of the damage, under specced, over voltage, age, breakdown \ drying of electrolyte.

 

In high end boards, you will often find these referred to as military grade, and metal cased vs. Plastic \ card. I too have replaced these, in cb's and high output audio amps.... A little less fiddly due to size but a bigger kick when you fgorget to discharge

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