UPDATE Car went to another garage 4 days ago. Starter motor was changed and loose earth connection was tightened. All is well since. Cost £150. Not happy having paid £100 to first incompetent garage but glad problem is sorted.

Surfer01 did you manage to re-charge your battery from 5.7V? sgtbush, dx100uk, king12345, heliosuk, Surfer01 I have researched this topic (fuse No. 8 blowing / no crank) and from what I am led to believe, the problem is as described by dx100uk. I am 99% convinced replacing the starter motor is the recommended course of action the garage should have taken. Proper electro-mechanical diagnostics would have pointed to this conclusion. Afterall, I had already agreed up front and confirmed a price so why didn't they just go ahead and do what we agreed upon? My only redress at this point is to lodge an official complaint and ask for a refund, compensation and costs. Also, I will have to find another garage willing to undertake this work at an affordable cost.

sgtbush, dx100uk, king12345, heliosuk, Surfer01 FURTHER DIAGNOSIS Originally, when the car was in the garage, the mechanic said he changed a mini fuse. I am since informed the fuse he refers to is fuse No. 8 under the bonnet - the Starter fuse. This was originally a 20A fuse however, Citroen later changed this to 25A due to frequent failures. The mechanic had replaced this with a 30A fuse. Whatever else he did to get the car going was just enough to get me home and do one day's motoring. And then I was back to square one again - no crank. And sure enough, the Starter fuse tested blown again. That was last week. Today, with the battery at 12.9V and a new 25A Starter fuse, I go to start the car and it blows the fuse immediately. I did not see any point retrying with a higher amperage fuse (as the garage had done) because whatever is causing the fuse to blow is likely to cause damage elsewhere if I defeat the fuse's purpose. Any thoughts on how I should proceed? (I still do not have a replacement digital multimeter).

sgtbush, dx100uk, king12345 I charged the battery overnight using a RAC-HP026 12A battery charger set at trickle charge (3A). I read somewhere I should leave the battery stand for 12 hours or so to allow it to settle after re-charging. Sure enough, initially it measured 12.63V, an hour later 12.62V, another hour later 12.61V, then two later 12.6V. The following morning it measured 12.99V. (You learn something every day lol). I measured it every few hours and noticed it gradually drop again, finally settling at 12.9V. More than half a day later it was still 12.9V. I discovered my digital multimeter's 10A (unprotected) circuit is blown so I cannot perform any current draw tests until I obtain a replacement DMM.

sgtbush thank you for your reply. Quote: "Your battery is losing charge, its on its way out and as its getting colder now your battery will continue to fail". Do you think the garage would have picked this up?

CONTINUATION My battery is Motrio 8671016919 LB2 50Ah 600A E.N. Date stamped 27-01-15. Open voltage on battery is 12.58 V. Removed battery for recharge. dx100uk, will perform test tomorrow. Will report back after 36 hours.

heliosuk, thank you for taking the time to reply to my post. VOLTAGE I am not familiar with the term "surface charge reading" however, is this performed while the engine is running or not running? If this reading is taken while the engine is NOT running then, does the ignition switch need to be off or on (first position)? What can raise the resistance in the starter motor?

Surfer01, please view my reply to your post. Thank you.

sgtbush, please view my reply to your post. Thank you.

Surfer01 thank you for your reply. I have not ruled out an electrical fault because... Prior to the car going to the garage, the electric windows and radio were dead. I didn't think it was related. While at the garage, a mechanic said he's got the car starting now, he's still got the windows and radio to sort. How much of that is accurate I don't know. UPDATE I have just received replacement fuses in the post. Replacing the two fuses mentioned in my previous post, both electric windows and radio are dead again. I have tried the ignition since replacing fuses. Nothing. Just a 'click'. Fuses still intact. The eject mechanism of the radio still works when ejecting and re-inserting the CD. When turning on the ignition, the dash shows "Info: Economy Mode Active". On the dash panel, the battery light is flashing (red). The engine light is lit (orange). The battery is showing a good charge.

sgtbush thank you for your reply. BATTERY To rule out the battery, I gave it an overnight charge. A multimeter across the battery terminals while attached to the car read 12.44 volts. Additionally, I used heavy duty jump leads to attach an external heavier duty (Bosch S5 007, 74 Ah) fully charged battery in parallel to the car. This only resulted in a slightly louder clicking noise when turning the ignition key. The voltage across the car terminals read 12.55 volts. I located the mini 30A fuse they said they replaced which was blown, replaced it with a 20A fuse (the only one at hand at the time), turned the ignition and it blew immediately with a visible flash and faint bang. This could be due to it being an unrated fuse. I have ordered replacement fuses from Amazon. I will provide an update when they arrive.

My car would not start with the turn of a key. L&J Autos (131-135 Whitehouse Lane, Bristol BS3 4DN) took my car in. I was quoted £150 for recovery, a replacement starter motor and labour. They are listed on Facebook as: ljautos7 I collected the car later that same day. I was told there was nothing wrong with the starter motor. I was told a mini 30A fuse and a relay switch was replaced. I was charged £100. 36 hours later, exactly the same problem. I turn the ignition key and I hear a clicking noise. The starter motor will not turn. I contacted the garage. Told them the problem isn't fixed. They replied "You drove it away didn't you? So it's fixed!" After several phone calls I have been insulted and threatened to 'have my head punched in'. I asked them to look at the car again but instead, they gave excuse after excuse - some ridiculous, as to why the car won't start. I demanded a refund. They reacted aggressively calling me a 'dick head' and dropping the 'F'-word. I feel I have been mugged off by this cowboy outfit. How should I proceed? It's not as though I can afford to lose £100, I'm unemployed. I used my fortnightly dole money to pay the garage. Citroen C2 Furio 1.4 HDI

The process for installing your O/S is simple providing you follow through step-by-step and logically. Firstly, you must verify the hardare is good. Second, you must verify your BIOS settings. Third, you must install your O/S. Fourth, install the rest of your S/W. The CDs sent to you are still very much required. Even if you took the laptop to your dealer, they would need to obtain the same CDs. Don't forget, your CDs contain all the drivers required by your laptop. I suggest you check your hard disk drive. Download (free) any DOS disk-chacking utility and re-partition your drive. Then format it (NTFS) - not a quick format, a full format. If all goes well then it's Easy Street from thereon. The UBCD (Ultimate Boot CD) option is good advice. Download and burn a copy of the latest UBCD, chuck it in your drive and reboot the laptop (should boot from CD. If not, check your BIOS settings. Might be a good idea to set these to default values while you're there).

My reply is as blunt as my ESA being withdrawn a week before Christmas ! I attended WCA on 11 December (2010). Payment was due to go into my account on 21 December. It didn't. And because of the Christmas period, it wasn't until 4 January that I was able to speak to DWP on the phone and have it confirmed. The peculiar thing is, I received a letter on 6 January, dated 24 December, informing me of their decision not to pay ESA. 'Peculiar' because the decision was made AFTER payment was supposed to be credited into my account. In other words, from the moment you attend ATOS to the moment a decision is made, payments are suspended pending a decision - even if payment is due in the meantime. Even more peculiar is the fact that ESA is paid in arrears, so stopping my payments in the manner they did demonstrated how ruthlesslessly serious both the DWP and ATOS are in kicking you down when you just couldn't get any lower! And only 4 days before Christmas! In the state that I presented myself to ATOS, if I scored '0' then rest assured, you will too. ATOS have no regard whatsoever concerning incapacity. Their prime focus is to assess your ability to work - any ability, any work! Basically, if you can breath, then you can work! The above is based on my experience with ATOS! I appealed on 4 January. I received payment (and arrears) 10 days later. My letter of appeal was simple and did not go into any detail WHATSOEVER!! I received a letter 2 days ago asking me for further details for my appeal so that this can be reviewed. More to come later...

chalie996 I can tell you right away how it went. You scored ZERO points !! Keep an eye on your bank account - specifically, when the next ESA payment is due to be paid in.

Obviously it's NOT a hardware problem. That much is evident from your MUCH MUCH MUCH earlier comment. It's a simple problem with a simple solution. A couple of things to bear in mind. You have obviously allowed your boot sector and/or partition descriptors to be mucked about with. Also, there are files which describe the hardware at the physical level which the system relies on to load and configure the correct drivers (at the abstract level) (including the hard drive itself). In addition to that, there are hundreds of system files which are inter-dependent on each other and any one ore more of these could also have been effected. Either way, the damage is done and you are looking to reinstall the system from new. The only way you can do this is to repartition the drive and reinstall Windows 7 from scratch however, you must first obtain all the drivers (from Samsung) that are specific to your laptop and the OS you're installing. These will include things like: the chipset drivers, monitor driver, touchpad driver, keyboard driver etc... If you really want to do the job properly then you have two options (1) obtain the proper installation DVD from Samsung or (2) create your own slipstream install DVD. Option (1) is easy. Contact Samsung Customer Services. Explain what you want giving full details of your laptop (make and model number, serial number, BIOS version etc..). They may send you a system restore DVD. (Safest and quickest option). Option (2) is where you will need to put a lot of effort into building your own install DVD. Ideally, this will be a slipstream DVD. That means, you will have to download ALL the (Samsung) drivers and have a copy of Windows 7 (or an ISO image - also downloadadble). You will also need subsequent service packs (downloadable from Microsoft). Then, you need to create a slipstream ISO file. What this does, is create a customised installation image (for making your installation DVD). This customised installation DVD will contain YOUR drivers - specific to your hardware, which will install automatically. Another advantage of the slipstream ISO file is that you can choose to omit or add components - even third party components (programs) which will all install as part of the installation process. Also, creating a slipstream installation DVD allows you to PRE-CUSTOMISE your installation. This means, you can boot straight to the DVD and your entire O/S can be rebuilt and configured without you having to interact with the system. (I cannot provide links as part of the rules of this forum) You will need the following: Windows Automated Installation Kit CDBurnerXPPro UltraISO Look up DISM command on Microsofts technical pages See this thread: www[dot]techpowerup[dot]com[slash]forums[slash]showthread[dot]php?t=120729 and scroll down to post: Dec 21, 2010, 03:22 PM See also: frankieloscavio.blogspot[dot]com/2009/10/how-i-slipstreamed-windows-7-rtm.html PS: replace the '[dot]' with a '.' Essential download for creating slipstreams... www[dot]windows7download[dot]com/win7-nlite/download-jypqkssn.html PS: replace the '[dot]' with a '.'

In cases like this, providing the recipient of the FPN does NOT make contact with the issuer of the FPN thereby not divulging ANY details (which would only serve to confirm the recipient's identity) then no legal 'contract' exists between the issuer and the recipient of the FPN. The issuer of the FPN, in this case, cannot assume the recipient of the FPN is 'guilty' of the cause which led to the issuing of the FPN therefore, the issuer has no legal redress. Ignore all correspondance from such operators. Their intention is to scare you into handing money over to them. They have no powers whatsoever. Once they realise you are not going to buckle at the knees they will stop harassing you and move their attentions to easier targets - those who reply and therefore, those who are more likely to crumble under their bullying tactics. (Keep ALL correspondance for future reference). If, and I mean 'IF' they actually 'DO' take out a court summons then still DO NOT respond to these operators but you MUST respond to the court though. ONLY THE COURT has the power to actually 'force' you to pay any monies owed to another person or organisation and only under extreme cases. Firstly, technically, you did not 'park' you vehicle while in the process of obtaining a ticket. It can be argued that while leaving your car while obtaining a ticket, you had not actually 'parked'. Only once you had fixed your ticket to the vehicle and walked away from it can it be said to be 'parked'. By the same token, you may as well have pulled up alongside the ticket machine, got out of your car to buy a ticket and at that point received a FPN - even with the engine turned off and the doors locked, this in itself does not constitute 'parking'. Needless to say, it would be unscrupulus of anyone attaching a FPN onto a car in this circumstance. Leaving your car in a 'mother and baby' zone while obtaining a ticket should not necessarily imply an intention to 'park' the vehicle in that zone. Often, 'mother and baby' zones are closer to ticket machines and it is this reason why the car was not left further away (while also not clogging up the roads). The intention then being to move the car to a more suitable parking bay. Also, there is a possibility that a single driver has entered a car park intending to pick up a mother and baby (who may have been dropped off there earlier for example) however, occupying a 'mother and baby' zone while waiting for the mother and child to leave the store would not contravene the parking rules especially as a ticket had been obtained.

Don't quote me on this however, I think the R519 has a hidden partition on the hard drive which contains everything, including drivers, to restore the system's main partition to it's factory default settings. This is why there is no installation CD shipped with the hardware. Other than that, you'll have to obtain an ISO CD (or DVD) image for your particular build. One potential problem you'll encounter is Product Keys for Windows, Office, etc... You may be able to obtain these from the vendor of your system quoting yor system's Serial Number.