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About paultomasi

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  1. UPDATE Car went to another garage 4 days ago. Starter motor was changed and loose earth connection was tightened. All is well since. Cost £150. Not happy having paid £100 to first incompetent garage but glad problem is sorted.
  2. Surfer01 did you manage to re-charge your battery from 5.7V? sgtbush, dx100uk, king12345, heliosuk, Surfer01 I have researched this topic (fuse No. 8 blowing / no crank) and from what I am led to believe, the problem is as described by dx100uk. I am 99% convinced replacing the starter motor is the recommended course of action the garage should have taken. Proper electro-mechanical diagnostics would have pointed to this conclusion. Afterall, I had already agreed up front and confirmed a price so why didn't they just go ahead and do what we agreed upon? My only redress at thi
  3. sgtbush, dx100uk, king12345, heliosuk, Surfer01 FURTHER DIAGNOSIS Originally, when the car was in the garage, the mechanic said he changed a mini fuse. I am since informed the fuse he refers to is fuse No. 8 under the bonnet - the Starter fuse. This was originally a 20A fuse however, Citroen later changed this to 25A due to frequent failures. The mechanic had replaced this with a 30A fuse. Whatever else he did to get the car going was just enough to get me home and do one day's motoring. And then I was back to square one again - no crank. And sure enough, the Star
  4. sgtbush, dx100uk, king12345 I charged the battery overnight using a RAC-HP026 12A battery charger set at trickle charge (3A). I read somewhere I should leave the battery stand for 12 hours or so to allow it to settle after re-charging. Sure enough, initially it measured 12.63V, an hour later 12.62V, another hour later 12.61V, then two later 12.6V. The following morning it measured 12.99V. (You learn something every day lol). I measured it every few hours and noticed it gradually drop again, finally settling at 12.9V. More than half a day later it was still 12.9V.
  5. sgtbush thank you for your reply. Quote: "Your battery is losing charge, its on its way out and as its getting colder now your battery will continue to fail". Do you think the garage would have picked this up?
  6. CONTINUATION My battery is Motrio 8671016919 LB2 50Ah 600A E.N. Date stamped 27-01-15. Open voltage on battery is 12.58 V. Removed battery for recharge. dx100uk, will perform test tomorrow. Will report back after 36 hours.
  7. heliosuk, thank you for taking the time to reply to my post. VOLTAGE I am not familiar with the term "surface charge reading" however, is this performed while the engine is running or not running? If this reading is taken while the engine is NOT running then, does the ignition switch need to be off or on (first position)? What can raise the resistance in the starter motor?
  8. Surfer01, please view my reply to your post. Thank you.
  9. sgtbush, please view my reply to your post. Thank you.
  10. Surfer01 thank you for your reply. I have not ruled out an electrical fault because... Prior to the car going to the garage, the electric windows and radio were dead. I didn't think it was related. While at the garage, a mechanic said he's got the car starting now, he's still got the windows and radio to sort. How much of that is accurate I don't know. UPDATE I have just received replacement fuses in the post. Replacing the two fuses mentioned in my previous post, both electric windows and radio are dead again. I have tried the ignition since replacing fus
  11. sgtbush thank you for your reply. BATTERY To rule out the battery, I gave it an overnight charge. A multimeter across the battery terminals while attached to the car read 12.44 volts. Additionally, I used heavy duty jump leads to attach an external heavier duty (Bosch S5 007, 74 Ah) fully charged battery in parallel to the car. This only resulted in a slightly louder clicking noise when turning the ignition key. The voltage across the car terminals read 12.55 volts. I located the mini 30A fuse they said they replaced which was blown, replaced it with a 20A fuse (the only on
  12. My car would not start with the turn of a key. L&J Autos (131-135 Whitehouse Lane, Bristol BS3 4DN) took my car in. I was quoted £150 for recovery, a replacement starter motor and labour. They are listed on Facebook as: ljautos7 I collected the car later that same day. I was told there was nothing wrong with the starter motor. I was told a mini 30A fuse and a relay switch was replaced. I was charged £100. 36 hours later, exactly the same problem. I turn the ignition key and I hear a clicking noise. The starter motor will not turn. I contacted the
  13. The process for installing your O/S is simple providing you follow through step-by-step and logically. Firstly, you must verify the hardare is good. Second, you must verify your BIOS settings. Third, you must install your O/S. Fourth, install the rest of your S/W. The CDs sent to you are still very much required. Even if you took the laptop to your dealer, they would need to obtain the same CDs. Don't forget, your CDs contain all the drivers required by your laptop. I suggest you check your hard disk drive. Download (free) any DOS disk-chacking utility and re-partitio
  14. My reply is as blunt as my ESA being withdrawn a week before Christmas ! I attended WCA on 11 December (2010). Payment was due to go into my account on 21 December. It didn't. And because of the Christmas period, it wasn't until 4 January that I was able to speak to DWP on the phone and have it confirmed. The peculiar thing is, I received a letter on 6 January, dated 24 December, informing me of their decision not to pay ESA. 'Peculiar' because the decision was made AFTER payment was supposed to be credited into my account. In other words, from the moment you attend ATOS to the
  15. chalie996 I can tell you right away how it went. You scored ZERO points !! Keep an eye on your bank account - specifically, when the next ESA payment is due to be paid in.
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