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  1. We bought a little Citroen C3 (I know! - it was my Wifes choice not mine!!) from a large independent car sales room back in February this year,it was 05 reg (2005),we agreed with the salesman that it would come with 12 months warranty as part of the deal,i did ask him at the time for the warranty agreed to be put in writing - this subsequently did'nt happaen.Anyway car was fine for 8 months until September when the fuel injection light came on,Mrs took the car back to the dealer for them to look at it,they looked at the record on the computer and told Mrs that it did'nt have a warranty,Mrs duly argued the point and told them to ask the salesman about this as he was the one that sold us the car initially.A few minutes later lady came back and said thats fine it is under warranty and we'll look at it,they then gave Mrs a loan vehicle.Next day they phoned and said they could'nt find what the problem was even though they had put ti on the diagnostics machine,Mrs picked the car up and went away with themsaying if theres any further problem bring it back. Today car started cutting out with engine management light on,so took it back into said dealer for them to sort out.Once Mrs got there they once again said it had no warranty on it,at this point i turned up to pick Wifey up as they had no loan cars in,sales manager (salesman who had sold us the car had susequently left between Septembers car problem and now) took us into the office and informed us that we had no warranty as their company only gives 3 months warranty on cars over 4 years old.We informed him that we had specifically made sure at the very start of the deal with them that we would have 12 months warranty with the car,guess what? - he wriggled "its not in writing" and "well that saleman has now left" etc etc. My question is to you knowledegable people who know thes things - me and the Wifey know we got a full 12 months warranty with the vehicle because we sat down with the saleman and agreed this,also does their taking the car back in in September and giving us a loan car and making no charge imply that we have actually got the 12 months warranty we had agreed on?. PS,the sales manager also pointed out that on our paperwork we initially got at the point of sale it was written (which we did'nt notice) "no warranty inplied nor given" - i know a business selling vehicle cannot put this on anything other than trade sales.Thanks for reading this and i'd really appreciate any ideas.
  2. Looks like Emmigration to a Central African country might be the easiest solution Al.
  3. "They are telling me that the cause of the problem as far as they are concerned was catastrophic turbo failure which sucked the oil from the engine causing the conrod failure." Having run many turbo diesel vans in the past and having this happen twice,my understanding of this kind of problem is that the turbo sucks up the oil from the engine and actually runs the engine on your oil and will keep going (you can't turn it off by the ignition!) until it has run the engine dry of oil.I'm no mechanic but surely if the the turbo failed and did this it would have emptied the engine of oil?. I'd query this explanation with a qualified motor engineer as i reckon they're clutching at straws!. PS - I own 2 Renaults at the moment,one is a 2003 van that my mechanic can't get the heater plugs out of because the bolts that hold them in have rusted away due to bad design and a 2002 Diesel Laguna that has just begun to lose water.....i can feel a change of manufacturer coming:).
  4. OK,thanks for your replys folks,it was just a thought really,my mate is pretty worried about the court thing,but as has been said "Caveat Emptor" seems to be the answer here.Thanks again.
  5. A friend of mine sold his own vehicle he'd owned for 18 months privately,subsequently the buyer has since found (apparently!) some things are wrong with it and wants recompence.He has sent my mate several letters,each of which has been replied to,and the buyer is threatening to take him to Small Claims court etc.The buyer just won't accept the fact that he inspected the vehicle,it was a private sale with no guarantee whatsover,the offer was made to him initially after the first complaint,to bring it back so my mate could try and rectify what was originally the problem.The buyer has sent 3 letters already threatening Court action,can he send the buyer a letter stating his position,i.e "sold as seen and tested" and threaten a counter suit for Harrasment?.
  6. Send them a letter giving them 7 days to repay the £80,also telling them that if you don't receive a refund in that time you will take it to the County Court.It would'nt hurt to also send filled in County Court paperwork to them with this letter as well,i think you can download these from the Court services site.
  7. You're quite right,and generally if i've made a second chance offer to the next highest bidder they're generally not willing to pay as much as they had actually bid for the item.It all comes down to (in my opinion!) the integrity of the person who's bidding,i personally would,if i bid on anything,keep to my promise of buying at the price bid,unless of course it was not as described.
  8. I sypathise totally with you,just last Sunday i sold my van on E-Bay,the conditions being that the winning bidder paid a £50 deposit by Paypal within 12 hours and pick up was made within 3 days,well the obvious happened - no deposit and no contact whatsoever (well there was a bit of contact when he cancelled my Paypal money request that i sent him!!) I am seriously thinking of downloading the County Court forms from the internet,filling them in with the details of my claim,albeit it would only be for the listing fee and final value fee which should be around £35 BUT its the pricipal of it rather than the money.I may find the County Court papers are enough to scare him into paying the sum its cost me. Why don't you try something like that?.A filled in CCJ form generally gives people the Willies - we'll see.
  9. "I have bought and sold a few vehicles on Ebay. the best way to buy is not to pay anything at all untill you have seen it, then haggle!" E-Bay is an auction site,not a car sales lot,your winning bid is legally binding ,the advice given above is why E-Bay is getting a bad name.If i sell a car on there i will always want a deposit (£50) from the winning bidder - it makes sure they complete the deal!,i always invite bidders to come and view BEFORE bidding - i don't care if a bidder lives 200 miles away and say they can't come and view -bid on somethin closer!!.I bet the OP of the above advice would get the right hump if he sold a car on there and the buyer then tried to "haggle" on pick up.:o
  10. I think you can go to the VOSA/MOT website and report it if you think an M.O.T is a bit moody,and i believe they investigate reasonably thoroughly.P.S i did'nt realise when i posted that you bought from a dealer,unfortunately though ( i believe!) its still seen as a "Trade,sold as seen" deal if its through an auction though i could be wrong.Good luck!.
  11. By the sound of it the car had been M.O.T'ed 5 months earlier - a lot can happen in 5 months!,wheel bearings are just normal wear and tear,you would'nt know if you had a wheel bearing problem unless it was roaring at you whilst on the move but someone inspecting the car whilst off the ground would feel a slight movement or small noise from it.rust - can be anywhere and is par for the course on a second hand car.Did the seller advertise the car as "as good as new" or "in virtually brand new condition"?.Did the seller also advertise the car,mentioning all the points you've a problem with as in good condition?.Why did you not inspect the car - i'd imagine your answer will be " i live too far away" or "i did'nt have time".I personally,don't think you've a leg to stand on,unfortunately you should have inspected and viewed it - you did (i would imagine!) have the opportunity to?.Sorry to sound a little negative but i have sold a vehicle on E-Bay,i described it to the best of my knowledge,the buyer came around and i allowed him to test drive (should'nt have done really as in any auction all viewing testing has to be done before the end of the auction!.) ,he asked where the nearest cashpoint was and disappeared into the sunset never to be seen again,resulting in my wasted money listing it and my wasted time:mad: I guess the lesson here is to never buy a vehicle unseen!.
  12. You'll need to send the person that owes you the money a Letter Before Action (LBA) giving them 7 days to pay the outstanding sum,let them know if its not paid in that time you will start a claim against them in the County Court - also outline to them the xtra costs that will be involved (for them?) i.e County Court fees etc.I've done this a few times over the years and have always won,you may find that the actual threat of County Court may spur them on to send you a cheque,in fact if you download the CCJ papers,fill them in and send a copy to the debtor along with your LBA that may be enough to open their wallet.Good luck!.
  13. Al,i sent this thru to you by e-mail this morning,this is also from this site: Hi, sorry for your misfortune. From my own experience of a County Court claim... The seller of my car altered the miles, lied about previous keepers, forged the service booklet and I actually had the car looked over at a garage who failed the mot of the car on seven different points and so it was unroadworthy. All of this was discovered after the event, some of which was only possible to do so. However, I still lost the court claim. Quite simply, the judge said it was a private sale and the moment I paid for the car all of it's problems were now mine. He told me to always remember 'buyer beware' in the future. Also, I would still argue that criminal acts were committed yet the police didn't want to know. My advice-learn the lesson and move on however difficult it is to do. Mick
  14. If its an auto,have you checked for any automatic transmission fluid leaks from the gearbox or pipes plus have you checked the fluid level?,it sounds like low fluid level in the box (if an auto).They have filters in the gearbox which also get blocked and can cause the same problem you're describing.Saying all this,it is'nt really your concern WHAT the actual problem is,the mechanic SHOULD have repaired it properly the first time.Good luck!.
  15. "Tell them you filled in a SORN form on xx date and posted it to Swansea, suggest that it must have got lost in the post," Do this - i have! - 2 or 3 times over the last few years and its always worked.
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