Hi,

Sorry but its quite a long story.

My electrician purchased and collected an oven from currys, and fitted it.

He gave us the paperwork.

The first time l used it the glass oven exploded, showering glass as far as the hall.

After many hours on the phone to the manager of the store,

it was agreed that he would send another one,

as l would not have the same one again,

l paid an extra £40 for another one.

He also said when it was delivered they would disconnect the broken one, and perhaps put the new one in for a cup of tea.

Oven was delivered and they could not disconnect the broken one as they were not allowed to.

After a few more hours on the phone they arranged for an engineer to come and take broken one away and plug the new oven in.

l opened a customer service case the day after it exploded (2 weeks ago).

They have finally replied saying the contract is with the electrician, and will not speak to us.

l cant understand why we were allowed to sort a replacement out and pay another £40,

and have it delivered to us,

when they are now unwilling to talk to us.

l have reported it to trading standards as would not like it to happen to someone else.

l was lucky that there was nobody in harms way when it happened.

l has an onion which ended up with a piece of glass sticking into it.

l would be grateful of any advice please.

Thanks

sounds like it wasn't level and the glass door was twisted by the frame and the heat cause sideways pressure to squash it

bi like when a shower door goes

but it should have been toughened glass that shouldn't do that!!

what does the manufacturer say?

lt was to replace my old oven, built in and no problems with the old one.

This happened on first use.

The Currys electrician said it should be tested to see what was wrong with it.

lt was Currys Logik make.

But going on how they are treating us at the moment,

l doubt if they will bother in case it affects sales

Thread moved to the appropriate forum and thread title amended.Please continue to post here to your thread.

Regards

Andy

Have you consulted your electrician? If it went first time after he had fitted it, then did he test it correctly after fitting? Did he test it at all? Is it right to go after Currys or to go after him? Do you need an independent engineer to do a report?

Hi

I have to agree with the above.

Did the Electrician follow the Manufacturers Instruction for Installation? (did the electrician leave all the product documentation with you, also check the manufacturers website for installation documentation of this product if you don't have it)

Did the Electrician Test the product correctly? (Do you have anything in writing stating this was done)

Have you checked the Electrician was qualified to carry out this work?

Couple of links:

New website helps people steer clear of rogue electricians: https://www.gov.uk/government/news/new-website-helps-people-steer-clear-of-rogue-electricians

Registered Competent Person Electrical: http://www.electricalcompetentperson.co.uk/

Have you checked the Electrician was qualified to carry out this work?

Although it could be argued that they would need to be competent (competent is not the same as qualified) for their own sake as much as any else, the electrician (or anyone) fitting an electric cooker to an existing cooker connection unit does not need to be qualified. It's not notifiable under part P.

I would like to add that most ovens now come with a standard 13 amp plug, so no special knowledge is required.

Did this oven had a plug?

I would like to add that most ovens now come with a standard 13 amp plug, so no special knowledge is required.

Did this oven had a plug?

Obviously not as an electrician was required.......some ovens still require to be hard wired into a higher rated cooker circuit

Obviously not as a electrician was required.......some ovens still require to be hard wired into a higher rated cooker circuit

Never seen a decent domestic oven that runs off a plug...

I would like to add that most ovens now come with a standard 13 amp plug, so no special knowledge is required.

Did this oven had a plug?

If your oven is fitted with a plug... A) you've been conned and B) you're dangerously overloading whatever ring-main that you're 'plugging' it in to.

A 13A socket at 240V is rated to supply 3.1kW Peak. More like 2.4kW RMS. So on a 32A ring main, you can draw a maximum of 7.6kW (rounded) peak at any one time.

A modern electric cooker could easily draw 7kW on its own (hence the reason that it should have it's own 32A (maybe even 40A) supply)

Try and pull 7kW from a 32A ring main that's also trying to run everything else that's plugged in to it and you're going to be standing in the street watching your house burn down before too long.

Most do now..... in line with European Directives to be more efficient....its the hardwired ones that are in decline

Most do now..... in line with European Directives to be more efficient....its the hardwired ones that are in decline

Ah, EDs... improving my lifestyle since the seventies.... NOT!

Light bulbs that produce light? Verboten.

Hoovers that hoover? Verboten.

And now ovens that heat....

Ah, EDs... improving my lifestyle since the seventies.... NOT!

 

Light bulbs that produce light? Verboten.

 

Hoovers that hoover? Verboten.

 

And now ovens that heat....

And dont mention hairdryers

There's no way I'd even entertain a cooker that plugs in to a standard socket. "Efficient" or not, it's never going to match a proper free standing electric double oven & hob.

Looking at the specs for my cooker, I'd say that it was fairly efficient, it doesn't draw anywhere near the maximum that it could on it's 32A circuit, but it's still hardwired to a proper 'cooker' wall outlet.

-

I'm still upset with the EU over my coffee machine that likes to turn itself off after 40 minutes. How the hell am I supposed to drink 10 cups of coffee (or 5 mugs) in 40 minutes exactly? I soon had the bottom off of that to disable the timer

If your oven is fitted with a plug... A) you've been conned and B) you're dangerously overloading whatever ring-main that you're 'plugging' it in to

A 13A socket at 240V is rated to supply 3.1kW Peak. More like 2.4kW RMS. So on a 32A ring main, you can draw a maximum of 7.6kW (rounded) peak at any one time.

 

A modern electric cooker could easily draw 7kW on its own (hence the reason that it should have it's own 32A (maybe even 40A) supply)

Try and pull 7kW from a 32A ring main that's also trying to run everything else that's plugged in to it and you're going to be standing in the street watching your house burn down before too long.

Obviously you haven't fitted an oven in the past 10 years.

Most of them now have a standard plug (to my concern i should add), have a wonder in an appliance store and look behind the display units.

You'll be surprised.

Independent 32 or 45 amp for cooker/oven has been standard for the past 20 years at least.

Christ more like 40+

Obviously you haven't fitted an oven in the past 10 years.

I have, but not one with a plug My cooker is about 2 years old now.

Most of them now have a standard plug (to my concern i should add), have a wonder in an appliance store and look behind the display units.

You'll be surprised.

Independent 32 or 45 amp for cooker/oven has been standard for the past 20 years at least.

If I remember rightly it would have been a requirement from around 1970 or so.

You’ll need the right supply outlet for your appliance.

For electric and dual fuel appliances, there needs to be a suitable outlet within 1.5 metres of the location.

You’ll need the right outlet, for example; a 32 amp outlet for appliances including freestanding electric cookers that consume more than 3KW. A 13 amp outlet will be required for single electric cookers and gas ignition appliances using less than 2.99KW.

https://www.appliancesdirect.co.uk/content/installation/cooking-appliances

Hmm, not sure I agree with that.

Even if you were rewiring a house tomorrow you'd still have to install a dedicated high Amperage outlet for a cooker.

You have to allow for the installation of a cooker that draws >3kW even if one isn't to be installed at the time.

Hmm, not sure I agree with that. Even if you were rewiring a house tomorrow you'd still have to install a dedicated high Amperage outlet for a cooker. You have to allow for the installation of a cooker that draws >3kW even if one isn't to be installed at the time.

It states that above....." a 32 amp outlet for appliances including freestanding electric cookers that consume more than 3KW."

32 or 45 amp supply is standard because many ovens and range cookers have high kwh, however as said, many modern ovens come from the factory with a standard 13amp plug.

Being sold in UK, they must be safe to use by simply plugging them in otherwise they won't be fitted with a standard plug.

We still don't know if this is the case with the op oven.

The exploding door surely has got nothing to do with the electrical connection.

Either the oven was faulty, the glass was damaged or the oven was somehow fitted in a twisted/squashed position so to put the door under mechanical stress.

Can I call for a pause for a minute.

The words "oven" and "cooker" keep coming up.

The OP talks about an "oven",

I have taken this to mean a built-in or built-under, oven only.

I define "cooker" to be a full blown electric cooker, ie oven, grill and hob.

As per the last few posts, I agree an "oven" is ever likely these days likely to come with a 3 pin plug.

A cooker would NEVER? come with one?

I think a few of us maybe getting crossed wires here (pun intended...) Maybe OP can confirm?

Can I call for a pause for a minute. The words "oven" and "cooker" keep coming up. The OP talks about an "oven", I have taken this to mean a built-in or built-under, oven only. I define "cooker" to be a full blown electric cooker, ie oven, grill and hob. As per the last few posts, I agree an "oven" is ever likely these days likely to come with a 3 pin plug. A cooker would NEVER? come with one? I think a few of us maybe getting crossed wires here (pun intended...) Maybe OP can confirm?

I have a full cooker 5 years old...13 amp feed from the ring main....back to topic.....