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Diesel 03 Mondeo - Flashing Glowplug Light


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Hi Guys,

There seems to be some confusion here regarding the meaning of the flashing glow plug light.

All that the flashing light is indicating is that a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) has been recorded by the PCM (Power Control Module) and this is just a warning to the driver that he/she will need to seek advice.

 

There are hundreds of faults that this could relate to, some are a simple fix and some not, I have a full list on my Laptop.

 

Before you start worrying about this and that and what someone else did, you really need to find out what the fault code is that has been recorded as this will lead you more or less straight to the source of the problem.

 

If you are unable to read the fault codes yourself you may if you wish contact me and I'll help you if I can. You can also buy Fault code readers from eBay but I wouldn't recommend them as they have proven in my experience to be most unreliable. Example:- one device showed no code present when I found Six using my equipment.

 

Things you can try:

It has already been mentioned about the ICU (Injector Control Unit) earth connection under the battery, so try that as this is a very common cause for ICU to loose the injector calibration codes on early Mondeo's 2001 - Jun 2003. You will still need to get your injectors coded in to the ICU again but if you have fixed the bad connection you shouldn't loose them again

 

EGR valve, it's not your friend and will at some point cause you problems. When they get gummed up with carbon they can stick open, the results are lack of performance and poor running. Cleaning will cure this problem but to really fix it you need to block the EGR off completely. There are various ways of doing this depending on your model.

 

After making any changes to the inlet or exhaust/EGR system it might be a good idea to reset the ECU so the ECU can learn the changes.

On MK3 Mondeo you will need to disconnect the battery for about an hour to be sure and after you reconnect it you will need to reset the electric windows and radio code, so while your doing that let the engine idle until it reaches running temp.

Then increase the revs to as close to 1200rpm and hold them there for 2 minutes.

After this drive it at varying speeds using the full range of throttle movement basically "drive it like you stole it" for about 5 miles, this should complete the re-learning process.

 

Following this reset procedure will not necessarily fix a fault or clear any stored DTC's as someone previously said.

 

If you have smoke from the exhaust in the mornings and poor running you more than likely need a new injector or two or it could be a split intake hose if this happens all the time.

I would never recommend recon injectors as they are rarely fully reworked and are sure to fail again in around 20,000 miles if your lucky.

Either new or recon injectors have to be coded to the ICU, you can't just swap them over with the dud one.

 

Driving your car with faulty injectors is going to cause you more problems as a faulty injector can be over fueling and flooding the exhaust system with diesel, some of this is going through your EGR valve and back in to the engine and washing old carbon deposits with it, this can also gum up the Turbo on Variable vain types.

 

So, if you have a flashing glow plug light, get the DTC read and find out why because delay can be costly.

 

Remember, if I can help you I will and I'm cheap 'n' mobile.

 

Dr Diagnostic.

Not bad for a first post. :D

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Hello again

 

I now have the ford bulletin for the glow plug fault codes

on the fuel system, I can email them to anyone whos interested (7 pages)gives full explanation

 

Hi, I would appreciate if you could send me the codes. Many thanks

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:) Can I just say a massive thanks - THANKS - my wifes mondeo 2.0 52 reg Zetec kept stalling last week, 10 times in 3 days. Of course - *I as a man* didn't believe her. until that is, I took the bloody thing to work and it did it twice with me, sitting at 70 mph on the motorway it cut out, failed to start for 10 to 14 goes, then as if by some course of magic - away ig goes as if nothing had happened. on the way home same, thing, After googling, i noticed this site, I was alarmed at so many simmilar problems to the same aged Mondeo's, spoke to FORD they said she needs a full Diognossis, the car that is not the wife (she just needs certified) but i went with the advice of the members here and changed the Cam Shaft sensor, WOW three days on and running like a dream, so a BIG THANKS, simon at TArtan Carriages
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  • 4 months later...
Hi Chubman here again , Fords have just rang me about my car and told me that the diesel pump and injectors need replacing. The cost of the parts alone is over £1700 and could not begin to offer me an idea of labour costs because the whole fuel system has to be replaced and tank cleaned etc.I believe this is all down to a bearing in the fuel pump breaking down a common fault apparently. Anyone else got similar problem.

 

Cheers Chubman.

 

Same here. '02 TDCI. 73k and full history. 100% reliable for 4 years. One day wouldn't start. Ford would like £3,700 to replace entire fuel system ( tank / lines / pump / injectors / manifold ). I've gone for a £1k pump and filter replacement and hope that the debris in the system is not too bad.

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The only problem is, if there still is debris in the system it will contaminate the new pump and knacker that as well.

 

Hammy :)

44 years at the pointy end of the motor trade. :eek:

GARUDALINUX.ORG

Garuda Linux comes with a variety of desktop environments like KDE, GNOME, Cinnamon, XFCE, LXQt-kwin, Wayfire, Qtile, i3wm and Sway to choose from.

 

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The only problem is, if there still is debris in the system it will contaminate the new pump and knacker that as well.

 

Hammy :)

 

True. But if the car is worth around £2.5k, then £3.7k worth of work is just insane. I think I might be selling it for spares if it has more problems.

 

I just hope the fuel filter would be enough to help minimise the debris risk.

 

I've always fancied buying another 5 series, maybe now is my chance.

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The only problem is, if there still is debris in the system it will contaminate the new pump and knacker that as well.

 

Hammy :)

 

Hi Guys,

 

As the fuel filter is being replaced as well, this could collect any particles that remain in the system but possibly only when the fuel is cold.

 

The TDCI fuel system doesn't return diesel to the fuel tank until it reaches running temperature, so I would guess that would only be a problem when cold.

 

Ford recommend that all the fuel lines are replaced, this isn't only because there may be particles remaining in the fuel system but also because of the fuel pipes that are of the 'crush fit' type which means that they should only be used once as the flange that gives the seal on the union could fail under the very high pressures of the common rail fuel system.

 

They even recommend replacing the feed pipes that connect to the injectors when ever they are disturbed but I've not had a problem yet, it's really just a precaution but if you see any signs of leakage afterwards then I would replace them asap.

 

May I add , that if the cam case hardening has failed in the fuel pump you will almost certainly need to replace the injectors as the tolerance of the injectors to pass debris through them is only around 2 microns, which is how good the fuel filter has to be to protect the injectors, so don't go for a cheap aftermarket fuel filter and pay the extra and get one from Ford or Delphi.

Can I suggest that you get a second opinion as Ford often seem quite happy to do unnecessary work from what I heard.

 

Hope that helps.

DD.

Edited by Dr Diagnostic
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  • 3 weeks later...
Hi Guys,

The TDCI fuel system doesn't return diesel to the fuel tank until it reaches running temperature, so I would guess that would only be a problem when cold.

DD.

 

Try pulling off the return line while you start it and see what happens . . .

 

G/.

 

PS: The HP pump shifts a MASSIVE amount of fuel constantly, and this

has to have somewhere to go if the engine is not burning it . . .

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Have decided to get rid of 02 TDCI instead of paying £2,000 for new pump & injectors (I'm told this was due to deisel pump breaking apart and ruining injectors).

 

I am thinking about getting a 2004 (MK4?) version instead under the assumption Ford improved the pump/injector parts - HAS FORD FIXED THE PROBLEM FOR VERSIONS 2004 ONWARDS???

 

Many thanks for your help, this thread has been hugely informative.

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Seeing as these pumps have been going since Jesus's time, if they haven't got it right by now, they never will.

 

There is probably a design change that will allow cheaper production costs, but that's all they're interested in really.

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Just so glad to have resisted the temptation of a TDCi and settled for the slightly more 'agricultural' TDDi when we bought a Mondeo 5 years ago.

 

Having clocked up a total of 170,000 on a 2002 model, we are about to 'give in' and replace the whole DMF/clutch/concentric bearing package for around £600 before it goes 'bang' - which on a mileage basis makes it a bargain from where I sit! :D

 

The TDCi stories in here could really put you off staying with a Fraudmobile!;)

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  • 7 months later...

I have a Mondeo diesel which has the proverbial glow plug flashing. Camshaft position sensor changed 12 months ago but problems have reoccurred. My mechanic has not been able to sort out the problem and I wondered if you could help. I'm based near Cambridge.

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  • 9 months later...
Hi Guys,

There seems to be some confusion here regarding the meaning of the flashing glow plug light.

All that the flashing light is indicating is that a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) has been recorded by the PCM (Power Control Module) and this is just a warning to the driver that he/she will need to seek advice.

 

There are hundreds of faults that this could relate to, some are a simple fix and some not, I have a full list on my Laptop.

 

Before you start worrying about this and that and what someone else did, you really need to find out what the fault code is that has been recorded as this will lead you more or less straight to the source of the problem.

 

If you are unable to read the fault codes yourself you may if you wish contact me and I'll help you if I can. You can also buy Fault code readers from eBay but I wouldn't recommend them as they have proven in my experience to be most unreliable. Example:- one device showed no code present when I found Six using my equipment.

 

Things you can try:

It has already been mentioned about the ICU (Injector Control Unit) earth connection under the battery, so try that as this is a very common cause for ICU to loose the injector calibration codes on early Mondeo's 2001 - Jun 2003. You will still need to get your injectors coded in to the ICU again but if you have fixed the bad connection you shouldn't loose them again

 

EGR valve, it's not your friend and will at some point cause you problems. When they get gummed up with carbon they can stick open, the results are lack of performance and poor running. Cleaning will cure this problem but to really fix it you need to block the EGR off completely. There are various ways of doing this depending on your model.

 

After making any changes to the inlet or exhaust/EGR system it might be a good idea to reset the ECU so the ECU can learn the changes.

On MK3 Mondeo you will need to disconnect the battery for about an hour to be sure and after you reconnect it you will need to reset the electric windows and radio code, so while your doing that let the engine idle until it reaches running temp.

Then increase the revs to as close to 1200rpm and hold them there for 2 minutes.

After this drive it at varying speeds using the full range of throttle movement basically "drive it like you stole it" for about 5 miles, this should complete the re-learning process.

 

Following this reset procedure will not necessarily fix a fault or clear any stored DTC's as someone previously said.

 

If you have smoke from the exhaust in the mornings and poor running you more than likely need a new injector or two or it could be a split intake hose if this happens all the time.

I would never recommend recon injectors as they are rarely fully reworked and are sure to fail again in around 20,000 miles if your lucky.

Either new or recon injectors have to be coded to the ICU, you can't just swap them over with the dud one.

 

Driving your car with faulty injectors is going to cause you more problems as a faulty injector can be over fueling and flooding the exhaust system with diesel, some of this is going through your EGR valve and back in to the engine and washing old carbon deposits with it, this can also gum up the Turbo on Variable vain types.

 

So, if you have a flashing glow plug light, get the DTC read and find out why because delay can be costly.

 

Remember, if I can help you I will and I'm cheap 'n' mobile.

 

Dr Diagnostic.

Not bad for a first post. :D

 

@Dr Diagnostic, are you available to view my car? I dont live too far from you. Luton. Let me know please. Thanks.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi guys, im havint a similar problem, glow plug light comes on and flashes and if i stop and switch off engine and restart its fine for a while,then some times if i go above 70 or 80 glow plug will flash and engine will lose power and die, but will start no problem after ive switched off ignition

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  • 3 years later...
Hello again

 

I now have the ford bulletin for the glow plug fault codes

on the fuel system, I can email them to anyone whos interested (7 pages)gives full explanation

 

Hello,

Please could you send me a copy of the bulletin to alenshaw66 at gmail dot com?

I have a 52 Plate Ford Focus 1.8TDCi that suffers from this flashing glow plug light problem and it's been driving me mad trying to explain to garages what happens as no fault codes appear because no one can access the ECU for some reason!

This may hep to explain things and get it fixed hopefully.

Thanks in advance,

Alen

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Hi Nimrod205,

Yes I am aware that the post is 4 years old but I'm clutching at straws here same as everyone else with the same problem. Searching everywhere to try and find out how what it is and how I can fix it that's all. My car suffered this problem on the motorway about 6 times during a 3 hour journey yesterday and it wasn't nice so hopefully you will understand my desperation.

If you can help I'd appreciate your advice.

Thanks,

Alen

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